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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heya, I have a 1986 Mazda B2000 pickup and after my little brother drove it for a week I get the truck back with a blown motor. (Nice, eeh?)

Anyway. This truck is a family member and is gonna stay in the family. I have decided to replace the motor instead of just the rebuild ( I have block issues)

I have not purchased the engine yet. I am torn between several companies and need to make up my mind soon.

I plan to buy a remanufactured repalcement motor for the truck. Average net price is approx $1500 for the engine.

What I need from all of you out there is if I should look for any one thing specifically from the engine supplier? Is there anything you would replace now during the engine swap that would save me a lot of trouble later.

So things I have debated about are: pacesetter headers $200. Weber carb $350. And of course. All belts,hoses,gaskets,plugs,coil,distributor cap, rotor.

Anything else? I am not made of money. But even if I spent a couple thousand dollars its cheaper than going out and buying a new truck. Or a newer used truck with someone elses problems.

Everything else on the truck works slick. I had no problems before the brother incident. So to fix the engine good is my primary concern.

I also want this thing as reliable as possible. This is not a show truck or hotrod. It is a daily driver.


Help!!! I need the collective to give me the info.


Thanks again.

Dox
 

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Heya, I have a 1986 Mazda B2000 pickup and after my little brother drove it for a week I get the truck back with a blown motor. (Nice, eeh?)

Anyway. This truck is a family member and is gonna stay in the family. I have decided to replace the motor instead of just the rebuild ( I have block issues)

I have not purchased the engine yet. I am torn between several companies and need to make up my mind soon.

I plan to buy a remanufactured repalcement motor for the truck. Average net price is approx $1500 for the engine.

What I need from all of you out there is if I should look for any one thing specifically from the engine supplier? Is there anything you would replace now during the engine swap that would save me a lot of trouble later.

So things I have debated about are: pacesetter headers $200. Weber carb $350. And of course. All belts,hoses,gaskets,plugs,coil,distributor cap, rotor.

Anything else? I am not made of money. But even if I spent a couple thousand dollars its cheaper than going out and buying a new truck. Or a newer used truck with someone elses problems.

Everything else on the truck works slick. I had no problems before the brother incident. So to fix the engine good is my primary concern.

I also want this thing as reliable as possible. This is not a show truck or hotrod. It is a daily driver.
Help!!! I need the collective to give me the info.
Thanks again.

Dox[/b]
Do something about the carb.
The Hitatchi 2-bbl that graces your truck is designed to run at about 6000rpm for 30 seconds, upon start-up, if the engine is cold.
When I rebuilt my '89 2200, there were chips all around the oil holes for the rod bearings and I believe this was at least part of the reason why.
Either search the market for an aftermarket intake that'll take something like Holley 6500 or a Ford 2-bbl, or a 2G, or SOMETHING ELSE, or build an adaptor that'll accept something else.
I slowed the idle down. One turn of the adjustment screw slowed the engine to 4400rpm.
I took it down to 1600 and ended up having to remove the choke plates, since setting the high idle also sets the choke and that was completely caddy-wumpus at that point.
Nowadays, I just sit around for about 5-10 minutes and let it "warm up" (This time of year, that's sort of "wishful thinking").
Also, make sure the oil pump is NEW. The pressure regulator is a cylindrical block of SOLID STEEL and its running inside an aluminum housing.
The edges are sharp enough to cut your fingers (I found out the hard way) and I truley believe that it shaves off a tiny bit of that housing, as it moves inside the housing.
Eventually, enough room is gained that the regulator will cock because my pressure's been off for some time now....and this was the same condition I ran into with the original pump.
Lastly, check for signs of oil leakage around the front cam bearing (where the distributor plugs in). Mine's been leaking since day one (1992!). I've heard from many others that this isn't a problem with all of them, but I'm not the only one who's complained about this before.
The oil leak can lead to other problems down the road, if you don't keep on top of it.
Its best to start with one that doesn't leak in the first place.

$1500 for a complete long block? Same price I was looking at in '95 when I rebuilt my engine.


...oh yeah, and now's a good time to replace the clutch and pressure plate, too. :D




Elvis
 

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I swapped engines in my 86' B2000 a few years ago. I found a rebuilt long block up here in Seattle for $900. I slapped it in there with every original part except clutch, water pump, timing belt, and the basic tune up crap. The thing ran like a top for about a year later. I was told at 500 miles or so your suppose to re-torque the head bolts, which I did, but the torque wrench was broken, so a year down the road I ended up with a blown head gasket. I fixed that and the truck is running great after 30,000 miles. So, I guess it's important to re-torque the head bolts. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Heya. Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it. I have ordered my motor from Rhino Engines. $1649. And went ahead and ordered a new clutch kit from Clutch city online as well. I am gonna have to save up and get a new carb and maybe some pacesetter headers.

Looking at about$2500 for the fix. Pretty cheap for a truck with a 100000 mile warrenty.

I will keep you all updated on the fix and feel free to continue to offer advice.


Thanks

Dox
 

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I swapped engines in my 86' B2000 a few years ago. I found a rebuilt long block up here in Seattle for $900. I slapped it in there with every original part except clutch, water pump, timing belt, and the basic tune up crap. The thing ran like a top for about a year later. I was told at 500 miles or so your suppose to re-torque the head bolts, which I did, but the torque wrench was broken, so a year down the road I ended up with a blown head gasket. I fixed that and the truck is running great after 30,000 miles. So, I guess it's important to re-torque the head bolts. Good luck[/b]
Hey neighbor...and....YOU DOG!
The only long block I could find in '95 was up at that big junkyard they used to have in Everett.
Sounds like you got an excellent deal....and yes, that re-torque of the head is straight out of the factory shop manual.
Hopefully you've replaced your torque wrench by now. ;)

BTW, did you stick with the 2.0L or move up to the 2.2L?




Elvis
 

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Hey. I also have heard that people have had issues with certain types/brands. Of filters.

Any recomendations of specfic brands or against any certain brands please let me know.

I want this baby to purr for years.

Dox[/b]
Stay away from Fram.
I understand everything they put out now is that double filter thingy.
I'm sure it gets the air and oil squeeky clean, but it also adds resistance. Can starve the engine.
I've used Wix filters for most of the time I've owned the truck.
Check and see if they still make the longer oil filter for the old B2000 ('79-'85).
That filter is twice as long as the stocker for our engines.
Wix number is 51347 ("correct" for our engine is Wix # 51356 / 51357).
Makes it easier to get ahold of when changing oil and you double the amount of filter material. More oil filtered, as it washes through there, but no "double filters" to restrict flow.
The only difference I can see with the old B2000 filter and ours is where the gasket hits the boss on the engine.
Ours seals on the inside of the boss, the older filter seals on the outisde of the boss.
15 years, 110K since the rebuild (bought it with 80K on the clock) and she's still going strong. Have only used the "correct" oil filter a couple of times.
Same with air filters. Cheapie house brand has always worked for me.

...and if you know anyone with a Rabbit / Golf diesel, tell them to try a stock "Ford" oil filter (NAPA # 1515).
Used one on my old 1500 for the 5 years I owned it. Worked great.




Elvis
 

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If you use a filter 2X the size of the stocker, consider adding more oil to compensate for that larger volume. Switching to a 2200 from a 1970cc (2.0) is not like changing shoe sizes. The 2200 has a motor that is a mirror image of the MA 2.0. Carb on left, exhaust on right, distributor is swapped...you gonna re-engineer your engine bay for a completely different motor ? No starving the motor for oil with a double filter Fram, the Fram issue is the filter media sucks, the smaller amount of filter media and the fact its glued on to a cardboard end cap , prone to come apart in there and allow unfiltered oil to pass on through.
 
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