Mazda World Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
1988, Mazda B2200 SE-5
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This seems to be a common issue. Just bought this 1988 at auction and it has 51K miles. Truck would start, but shut off. Replaced air filter, plugs, and added fresh gas. Now it stays running, and while the engine is running better, it is still very, very rough. When given throttle, it stalls and sometimes mildly backfires.

I am new to Mazda trucks. This thing is in great shape and would love to get it running. But i have no idea on what this could be. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
First, look over all of the vacuum hoses in and around the carburetor, to make sure none are cracked or broken, or have popped off of their vacuum port......these engines have a BUNCH of vacuum lines, and they all need to be connected and working for the stock carburetor.

The second thing I would do, is remove the EGR valve and clean the carbon out of it just to make sure that is not the problem. If the valve is being held open slightly, it can cause a rough running issue.

If you can do so, post some good pictures of the engine from different angles, and that may help us to see if anything else has been messed with by a previous owner.

Welcome to the forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
First, look over all of the vacuum hoses in and around the carburetor, to make sure none are cracked or broken, or have popped off of their vacuum port......these engines have a BUNCH of vacuum lines, and they all need to be connected and working for the stock carburetor.

The second thing I would do, is remove the EGR valve and clean the carbon out of it just to make sure that is not the problem. If the valve is being held open slightly, it can cause a rough running issue.
Agree with above. If stock carburetor - more complicated than the space shuttle - and you don't have emissions requirements there - consider upgrading to a genuine Redline Weber 32/36 DGEV kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
FUEL FILTER,
Get you every time
bobmo
YES!
Forgot about that......if the truck has been sitting for some time, or just not driven very often over the years......then your gas tank could be rusty, and small particles of rust could be not only clogging up the fuel filter, but could even get past the fuel filter and into the carburetor! And that will cause some drivability issues!

Here is the bowl of a stock carb that was in bad shape from a rusty fuel tank.....and this all got past the stock fuel filter....

Auto part Gas Metal Machine Engineering


Brown Wood Amber Metal Close-up


After the fuel evaporated....

Rim Automotive tire Auto part Motor vehicle Bicycle part


Light Automotive tire Machine Motor vehicle Metal



NOW.......

Take care of the easy stuff FIRST
......don't pull the carb apart to check it out until ALL other things are checked out and eliminated!!

The stock carb is a PIA to work on! I would even check the gas tank for rust prior to pulling the stock carb apart.....

Here is what the gas tank of the truck/carb above looked like when I took a look inside of it!

Brown Water Wood Plumbing fixture Brick
 

·
Registered
1988, Mazda B2200 SE-5
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First, look over all of the vacuum hoses in and around the carburetor, to make sure none are cracked or broken, or have popped off of their vacuum port......these engines have a BUNCH of vacuum lines, and they all need to be connected and working for the stock carburetor.

The second thing I would do, is remove the EGR valve and clean the carbon out of it just to make sure that is not the problem. If the valve is being held open slightly, it can cause a rough running issue.

If you can do so, post some good pictures of the engine from different angles, and that may help us to see if anything else has been messed with by a previous owner.

Welcome to the forum!
Okay, looks like I've got some good starting points. Thanks Axel. Will keep you posted and will drop some pics in a few days when work allows. At first glance, the hoses look good. But I haven't looked at the EGR. This engine looks complicated ASF. Haha.
 

·
Registered
1992 Mazda, B2200 ext cab
Joined
·
25 Posts
Fyi. Finally had the time to change the fuel filter and that was not the issue. Just wanted to let you know.
Thanks for getting back. well you got the easy one out of the way now its time for hoses from hell.
OR you might want to bite the bullet and swap the carb for a Weber. then you can remove all that crap on the fenderwell, and look forward to a long life with your B.
Make sure you get the right Weber and all the plates and brackets too.
Cuss and Abe can give you the preferred places and numbers.
Bobmo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
you might want to bite the bullet and swap the carb for a Weber. then you can remove all that crap on the fenderwell, and look forward to a long life with your B.
Make sure you get the right Weber and all the plates and brackets too.
Cuss and Abe can give you the preferred places and numbers.
Just make sure to get the GENUINE Redline Weber K675 kit which comes with a genuine European-made Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor WEBER Carburetors distributed by Redline : Mazda
Redline can provide you with vendors REDLINE - Serving the U.S., Canada, Central and South America for over 30 years!

There are things you'll need to do:
Use a thin coat of Permatex Aviation or similar used on all the gaskets for the adapters and bottom of carb

Torque the mounting screws and bolts correctly? Did you use blue Loctite on their threads?

Plug the electric choke of the Weber into the rear of the alternator. If the bi-metallic spring doesn't get heat from the choke heater to open up the choke butterfly, the fuel:air mixture will be richer than it should be for a warm engine.

Cap off all the vacuum ports capped off with GOOD quality caps (or pieces of vacuum tubing and golf tees)

Get a stronger throttle return spring.

And most important: Make Weber adapters flat perfectly flat, sand them flat using wet/dry on a sheet of glass.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top