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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well for starters, just looking for some feed back if anyone has an idea about it,not to sure if I’ll get any but I’ve just been pretty stumped.
It’s a 1989 Mazda b2200 5spd manual, 2.2L 4c with a 32/36 Weber.Lowered on blocks in rear and torsion lowered in the front. Got the car when I was 16 and it was working for a year and a half for so just fine, I didn’t know much about cars then and never really messed with it. It always needed warmed up before driving or else it would act really rough and unhappy.but once warmed up it would never want to stop, the cold start would kick up consistently tap of the gas it went down like it should. After having it work for about 2 years things started to break like the ignition started acting up,replaced, and good as new. A number of small things replaced aswell but nothing to affect the engine or it’s components really. I’ve had the truck start up in 0 degree weather,with warming up it would go.
Last year, 2020 I started it up one day,really nice out,drove it down the street and it just turned off,bam, nothing. Pulled over and it turned back on,little hesitation, it turned off a few times home but got it back. I put a pin in it and took a different car. The next day I messed with it and it wouldn’t start at all and the crank vent hose was loose, even after replaced nothing. Over the next 5 months I tried messing with it,new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new battery, new spark plugs and wires and coil, new water pump and timing belt( different situation), it would start rarely but just never anything. It changed when I got a new distributor, it wanted to start more, got it timed correctly 5 degrees over tds, tuned the carburetor a little and it was kinda revived, and ran through the summer last year kinda okay, but ever since it’s been really sensitive, it changes how it runs everyday, some days the carb likes it where it’s at but other days I have to tune it accordingly. But it would always start and run. So I would deal.
Here lies my problem, the winter months have hit and it’s sensitivity has increased dramatically, it’s really hard if next to impossible to get it to started in cold weather, even are far as it being 45 degrees out it won’t want to start, you’ll just crank the engine loudly hearing it try all day. Has strong spark and plent of fuel, the spark plugs has lots of fuel on them but that’s after attempting to start for an hour. With everything said lots have been replaced,but still has things wrong like leaks oil around the back of crank case, the exhaust has been shorted, there are a few vacuum leaks but nothing that wasn’t already there when I purchased the truck really.
I’ve chalked it up as it’s a sad old truck just trying but that doesn’t satisfy me,it used to be a tank, somewhat reliable. If anyone has anything thoughts after a long read,it would be nice if you’d leave it,thank you. :)
 

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Well, I've had my 1988 B2200 5-speed since 1994, and it's had the Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor on it since back in 2005. I don't have any of your issues, mine runs good, and smooth, and starts/runs fine in 40F weather.

That said: there are potential issues with a Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor installation, like the installer not sanding the Weber adapter plates perfectly flat, using Permatex Aviation on the gaskets, and using blue Loctite on the nuts/bolts and all torqued correctly. You may be blessed with re-doing this because you may have a large vacuum leak !!! Also, maybe the electric choke heater on your Weber is not plugged into the rear of the alternator, or your choke not working at all.

Many folks have also had issues with the electrical part of the ignition switch; start/crank and run are separate circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The reply is appreciated, thank you. There is some fuel leakage around the carburetor,nothing crazy but still shouldn’t be what so ever, a quick sanding and and resealing is a good idea. About the choke I replaced it itself and the wire runs to the back of the alternateor, should it physically feel warm?it functions when the truck is warm and is closed when cold. Other times it runs smooth,set a glass of water on top of the crankcase and it would barely shake, some days it won’t start at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And had I’ve had start stop problems before, took my ignition out and it looked like every wire was re-sodered to another one,almost like it was stolen previously in its life. Replaced and it was back on the road. About 6 months later my truck broke down and these problems occurred, I appreciate the feed back.
 

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1992 Mazda, B2200 ext cab
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Your problem sounds like EGR woas that I have had on other cars.
Cussboy, does the Mazda suffer from EGR problems?
Might this be a point to look at also?
Bobmo
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The egr is just there open, the inside looks closed but most people just cut out a piece of sheet steel, drill holes to fit for bolts, and cover it up completely. Haven’t gotten around to doing it but was like it originally when I got the truck and wasn’t a problem. Today it was 50 outside and started up,after warming up and slight tuning drives well,still sensitive but after awhile fades out. When it’s cold again I’m sure the problem will continue.
 

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Your problem sounds like EGR woes that I have had on other cars.
Cussboy, does the Mazda suffer from EGR problems?
Yes, the Mazda EGR can get clogged up with carbon and or the piston in it can get stuck in the open position. Fortunately, these can be cleaned out with some effort.

Mazda trucks with aftermarket Weber carburetors don't need/use the EGR at all, and most make or buy a block off for that. I made mine, but this one is sold on Facebook and includes a hole for the Weber throttle return spring.
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Composite material Metal Auto part Household hardware Tool
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you,I’ve seen similar looking things on other trucks but have struggled to find one pre-fabricated. If there’s a link it would be helpful,I’ve found a similar one but doesn’t look as clean and doesn’t have the return spring hole as mentioned.The responses are appreciated, new ideas are helpful.
 

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1991 Mazda B2200
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I had a 1989 B2200 that I put a Weber on. No problems initially. They started having issues with idle, etc. Pulled plugs and noticed really lean burn. Couldn't figure it out. Was looking at the Haynes manual one day and noticed the exhaust had a front catalytic converter between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. I never paid attention to it because the shroud covers it. Anyway, it is a canister and inside is what is supposed to be a cylinder like catalytic converter that fits in the canister which is the top portion of the exhaust pipe. The cylinder of catalytic converter had broken into several pieces and fallen into the exhaust pipe partially blocking it. The back pressure from the blocked exhaust was causing all my problems. Put on a set of headers and ran like a champ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The response are appreciated, interesting thought about the back pressure. My exhaust is partially broken and is mostly just one straight pipe.( man you’ve never heard a b2200 like mine, it’s to loud to be honest) That being said the blocking of my pipe couldn’t be the problem in my case. Snow has hit and it won’t start as usual, not sure if it’s to much fuel or possibly my egr, found a blocking plate that looks close, going to rig and see if it helps. My plugs also go from lean burn some times to carbon build up from access fuel( deepening on how I tune it given the weather and what it likes) so I don’t know what to make of it really, buy a new carb?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No it cranks at normal speed, I’ll play with the cold start and fuel mixture,I’ll hear the engine getting different amounts of fuel,( it being flooded or it obviously not getting much to no fuel ) but always cranks. I have to tune everything down to get it to start in cold weather then open the fuel mixture screw as it warms up, if I can get it to start. It’s really random, it likes to be tuned differently everyday.I’ve switched spark plug brands and it’s noticeably helped but overall problem is the same.I appreciate the feed back. :)
 

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You should never need to "Open the Fuel Mixture Screw" after getting the engine to start. You either have something not correct inside of the Weber, or the "Lean Best Idle Adjustment" instructions were not followed correctly when setting up the Weber initially......or......you may have a knock-off Weber instead of a genuine Weber 32/36. If you have some good quality pictures of the engine & Weber, we may be able to help better.

Here are the Weber instructions for setting the "Lean Best Idle" from Redline.......

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Your right,it should be set and work always, a year and a half ago it would start up regardless of the day or temperature. I have a genuine Weber, I’m almost positive there’s something wrong with it tho. I’ll have things set, to where it’s running correctly, beautifully, I’ll let it sit and get cold for day,come back and all it wants to do is crank,enless it’s like 60 degrees +
I’ll send some pics soon.
 

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You do depress the gas pedal once or twice, THEN crank the truck over......right?

Sometimes people are not aware that when starting a vehicle that is carbureted, you must engage the choke by depressing the gas pedal once or twice before you try to start the vehicle.

Once you do this, you should not have to touch the gas pedal while you are cranking the engine......in fact, if you do depress the gas pedal while you are cranking the engine over, you can disengage the choke and therefore make the vehicle harder to start.

NOW, with that said......there are some vehicles that when parked for several days, will leak or evaporate the gas out of the carb bowl (I have a 1989 B2200 that does this!) this will require you to crank the engine over 10-20 rotations so that the fuel pump can replenish the gas that is supposed to be sitting in the bowl. After you crank the engine over, and get fuel into the bowl, then you stop cranking, depress the gas pedal to activate the choke, then crank the engine again without touching the gas pedal.

After the vehicle starts, if the choke is set properly, the engine speed will start increasing slowly........after 30 seconds or so, you can rev the engine up using the gas pedal, and when you release the gas pedal, the engine speed will lower down close to it's warmed engine speed (idle speed) and idle as should.........again, if all is set as it should be!

Also, just a FYI.......I have seen (and heard about from others) brand new carbs where a brass jet that is supposed to be screwed in and tightened, just rolling around in the bowl of the carb!! They don't run good like that!
 

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....there are some vehicles that when parked for several days, will leak or evaporate the gas out of the carb bowl (I have a 1989 B2200 that does this!) this will require you to crank the engine over 10-20 rotations so that the fuel pump can replenish the gas that is supposed to be sitting in the bowl.
I'm in Arizona, so like Axel Breaker Earl, I'm in a hot environment. My own carbureted vehicles (1988 Mazda B2200, 1970VW, and 1971 VW) all need additional cranking if the vehicle has not been run in a week.
 
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