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Discussion Starter #1
So I’m between replacing most of my fuel and ignition parts or rebuilding the ecu I’m not sure what I should do it will stall out after 25/30 minutes of driving. It will start right up after about five minutes but will stall again until I get lucky enough and it doesn’t stall. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Check fuel tank venting. Next time it happens, loosen fuel cap, see if the issue corrects itself (you'd hear rushing in once the cap is loosened/taken off). Can't pump fuel if there's a vacuum; such happened to me once on a different vehicle in 112F in middle of desert Interstate, mid-afternoon.
 

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I think I'm having the same symptoms as you is it bucking when you push the peddle past a certain point after said 20 to 30 min? And spuddering?
10276
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Turns out it was oil getting into my distributor housing messing with the crank positioning sensor. Replacing the whole distributor fixed my issue. Thanks for your advice
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I pulled my ecu and had a burn spot on the injectors circuit I'm hoping that's my issue
How did you check you distributor
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did you have any bad spots on the board of the ecu
not burn spots on my ecu. I’m expecting to see them in the future since it’s the oem ecu. To check your cam sensor, what I did was visually inspect the distributor after a 5-10 minute drive. By taking off the cap, rotor, and cover, I saw small amounts of oil on the optical sensor which caused me to think. So I used some oil and covered the disk with a fine film to see if oil being on that sensor was gonna allow it to run. Turned the key after assembling it back together and it started hard and stumbled, caused my rpms to spike and show all the symptoms of what happened before and stalled. It was mostly trial and error by this point.
 
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