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installed 2 new front axles and 2 new front upper leading links and complete new timing belt and all components including hydaulic tensioner.

How much roughly would all this cost ? Thx Joe
I think I got ripped off!
 

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installed 2 new front axles and 2 new front upper leading links and complete new timing belt and all components including hydaulic tensioner.

How much roughly would all this cost ? Thx Joe
I think I got ripped off!
At a shop? at least $1000 to $1500. If you learn to do it yourself less than $300.
 

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Your car is barely even worth $2800. You got seriously taken advantage of. Post a pic of your receipt here.
I'd like to see the break down of what they charged for service and parts.
There's an allotted amount of time for each job. Timing belt would be about 4 to 6 hours, suspension and drive lines another 4 hours tops. So 10 hours x $85 = $850 labor.

What did they charge you for parts and labor?
Why did you authorize the work with that kind of quote?
Did they even change the water pump and idler pulleys?
 

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It is all said and done now, just enjoy the ride. You will need to drive a few years to get that money out of it.
TomK
 

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you all need to understand how it works. there are 3 parts to a repair. parts, labor, and shop supplies. i used to make up work orders and estimates a lot. then, i sold parts to mostly independent shops for a long time. first, the labor. the shop will have some source, like alldata for labor charges. if the timing belt job lists at say, 5 hours, then the labor is 5 times whatever the shop charges for labor. if they can do the job in less, the rest is profit. if they take longer, then they lose. or, in the case of a lousy shop, they cut corners, and YOU end up losing. shop supplies is a percentage of the labor, and this covers miscellaneous stuff like brake cleaner, rags, penetrant, stuff like that. i used to use 5 percent. parts is by far the most complicated. when a car comes in for a job, we have to first diagnose what the problem is. then, based on the diagnosis, the estimate is worked up. for parts, i would have to list out all the parts needed. that means looking up a helluva lot of part numbers, and finding out what list price is for each part. some parts are available aftermarket, some are dealer only. dealers never sell parts based on suggested list price, they always use their own price matrix, and this means otc sales have a much higher list price. i have seen dealers use list price that is more than double what suggested list price is. all manufacturers have a suggested list price, but dealers dont have to use this, they base their local list price on a lot of other things. the only place you will see the actual mazda of north america(or any other car manufacturer) suggested list price is on the web. the price for web parts are generally based on dealer cost(this is the price a dealer pays mazda of north america for parts) plus a percentage. a local dealer will base a discount on their list price. for example, if mazda suggest list price is say, 100 bucks, and this part costs the dealer 50 bucks, a web price would probably be 65 bucks. a local dealer might discount(to independent shops, and others) the part for list minus 25%, BUT, their local list price might be 150. do the math. so, i would use list price on all the parts, then call the owner and tell them what the total would be. now, that 100$ part? i might be able to find it aftermarket for 10 bucks. so the rest is our profit. BUT, all aftermarket parts are NOT the same. remember, the shop(at least a good, reputable shop) has to stand behind their work, and generally a year warranty on parts and installation is given. so i aint gonna get no buttco brand made in a third world country that has no copyright laws. i would be looking for original equipment. now, look at the timing belt job. mazda list price for just the idler pulley(there are 2) KL01-12-730A, is 181.52. then there is the belt, 2 more tens pulleys, and the tensioner. heck, you can find a kit on ebay for 121 with everything. but, i dont know that until i start looking. so, all the parts on the estimate are mazda list. also, this kit might be pure buttco, made in china, high failure rate, and no way ima gonna have that put on a customer's car. if we use just any part, we might have to buy the customer a new motor. for example, i have only used genuine mazda tensioners in our cars. iirc, they cost like 130 from tasca. i recently found aftermarket on ebay, 60 bucks, and bought one. after looking at it closely, i decided i didnt want to take the chance, and installed genuine. the pulleys are readily available aftermarket in original equipment, the belt, i went with gates, which is the largest belt manufacturer in the world. mazda oe is bando, and bando has a terrible reputation in the aftermarket. a lot of the suspension links are available aftermarket, but most are of dubious quality. remember, third world countries have little to no quality control. and yah, they might offer a lifetime warranty, but what if a water pump goes, and you lose the engine. you get a new waterpump free, but the rest is sol. there are many other complicating things. the worst is the actual customer. if a car comes in that is just a pile of crap, and they want an estimate that is gonna be way more than the car is worth, i STILL gotta take the time and make up the estimate, KNOWING they aint gonna give the go ahead. then there are those who bring in their own parts, and the parts are junk. we dont want to install them. so then, the customer argues about the parts prices. we used to just tell them to go GTFO. now, if you do the job yourself, first off, you save the labor. that is probably half of the 2800. if you use good parts, you would probably save half of the remainder. if i were doing the job, and i have, since i dont know the owner, i sure aint gonna do any favors. and to get the car out fast, i would have to work hard a lot. in the heat, few breaks, probably several complications on an old car, too. i think 2800 was a fair price.
 

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WOW Ken, that is probably the longest reply in a single paragraph I have seen that was not a how-to but just explaining the cost of a repair. Clear and funny that I originally thought that price was not that far out (had about $2500 in my head) for a shop to do the work with non-china parts.
TomK
 

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Hello Ken,
No disrespect, I have separated some of your paragraphs so I could read your knowledge on dealerships and auto repair shops. Since I separated your material to read it. I read it and wanted this info to not go unused I decided to re-share it with everyone. Also, some of us have reading problems when those many words are all together. "Holy Crap on that total!" I hope to never pay that much at one time again unless I have the info that you just provided on name brand parts. Good luck to you on your Mazda.

"Keninn stated above"

You all need to understand how it works. There are 3 parts to a repair. Parts, labor, and shop supplies. I used to make up work orders and estimates a lot. Then, I sold parts to mostly independent shops for a long time, first, the labor. The shop will have some source, like all data for labor charges. If the timing belt job lists at say, 5 hours, then the labor is 5 times whatever the shop charges for labor. If they can do the job in less, the rest is profit. If they take longer, then they lose. Or, in the case of a lousy shop, they cut corners, and YOU end up losing. Shop supplies is a percentage of the labor, and this covers miscellaneous stuff like brake cleaner, rags, penetrant, stuff like that.

I used to use 5 percent. Parts are by far the most complicated. When a car comes in for a job, we have to first diagnose what the problem is. Then, based on the diagnosis, the estimate is worked up. For parts I, would have to list out all the parts needed. That means looking up a Helluva lot of part numbers, and finding out what list price is for each part. Some parts are available aftermarket, some are dealer only. Dealers never sell parts based on suggested list price, they always use their own price matrix, and this means otc sales have a much higher list price. I have seen dealers use list price that is more than double what suggested list price is.


All manufacturers have a suggested list price, but dealers do not have to use this, they base their local list price on a lot of other things. The only place you will see the actual Mazda of North America (or any other car manufacturer) suggested list price is on the web. The price for web parts are generally based on dealer cost (this is the price a dealer pays Mazda of North America for parts) plus a percentage. A local dealer will base a discount on their list price. For example, if Mazda suggest list price is say, 100 bucks, and this part costs the dealer 50 bucks, a web price would probably be 65 bucks.


A local dealer might discount (to independent shops, and others) the part for list minus 25%, BUT, their local list price might be 150. Do the math. So, I would use list price on all the parts, then call the owner and tell them what the total would be. Now, this is a $100.00 part? I might be able to find it aftermarket for 10 bucks. So the rest is our profit. BUT, all aftermarket parts are NOT the same.


Remember, the Shop (at least a good, reputable shop) has to stand behind their work, and generally a year warranty on parts and installation is given. So I am not going get no buttco brand made in a third world country that has no copyright laws. I would be looking for original equipment. Now, look at the timing belt job. Mazda list price for just the idler pulley (there are 2) KL01-12-730A, is 181.52.
Then there is the belt, 2 more tens pulleys, and the tensioner. Heck, you can find a kit on eBay for $121.00 with everything. But, I don’t know that until I start looking. So, all the parts on the estimate are Mazda list. Also, this kit might be pure buttco, made in china, high failure rate, and no way am I going to have that put on a customer's car. If we use just any part, we might have to buy the customer a new motor.
For example, I have only used genuine Mazda tensioners in our cars. iirc, they cost like 130.00 from tasca. I recently found aftermarket on eBay, 60 bucks, and bought one. After looking at it closely, I decided I didn’t want to take the chance, and installed genuine. The pulleys are readily available aftermarket in original equipment, the belt; I went with gates, which is the largest belt manufacturer in the world. Mazda oe is bando, and bando has a terrible reputation in the aftermarket. A lot of the suspension links are available aftermarket, but most are of dubious quality.

Remember, third world countries have little to no quality control. And yeah, they might offer a lifetime warranty, but what if the water pump goes out, and you lose the engine. You get a new water pump free, but the rest is sol. There are many other complicating things. The worst is the actual customer.


If a car comes in that is just a pile of crap, and they want an estimate that is going to be way more than the car is worth, I STILL gotta take the time and make up the estimate, KNOWING they aren’t going to give the go ahead. Then there are those who bring in their own parts, and the parts are junk. We don’t want to install them. So then, the customer argues about the parts prices. We used to just tell them to go GTFO.

Now, if you do the job yourself, first off, you save the labor. That is probably half of the 2800. If you use good parts, you would probably save half of the remainder. If I was doing the job, and I have, since I don’t know the owner, I sure am not going to do any favors. And to get the car out fast, I would have to work hard a lot. In the heat, during few breaks probably several complications on an old car, too. I think $2800 was a fair price.
 
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