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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks.

I rebuilt my B2000 engine and have a a couple of parts I cannot determine where they go.
I think the black bracket goes somewhere near the front on the passenger side.
Thanks.
Ron
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Sorry, I was on vacation this past week!

You are correct on the black bracket, as it bolts to the passenger side of the oil pump and braces the cooling fan bracket. Only the B2000 engine used this, as the B2200 cooling fan bracket is different. Here is a picture of it installed......

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The other bracket is used for holding the metal P.A.I.R. tubes where they wrap around the front of the cylinder head. I looked for a pic of this bracket, but all of my pics have it removed! It's not really needed......there is a second part of it also that "clamps" the two metal P.A.I.R. tubes, with a nut on the threaded stud, to secure them to the engine at that location.
If I find a picture, I will post it here.
 

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OK.....I found a couple of pics that barely show the other P.A.I.R. tube bracket......it bolts on the front passenger side of the cylinder head/front housing and holds the ends of the P.A.I.R. tubes right before they change to the three rubber hoses that connect to the factory Air Cleaner. I circled the bracket in red on the pics.....

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, Earl.
Somehow, I figured out the PAIR tube bracket.
I would have never figured out the fan bracket. I should have tanken mor pictures during engine removal and disassembly.

The truck is running great, but leaking oil from what appears to be the rear crankshaft seal, so I clearly did something wrong (oil is dripping out around the two black plastic fillers at the bottom of the bell housing.) The manufacturer's shop manual really stinks for this vehicle.

Ron
 

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Thanks, Earl.
Somehow, I figured out the PAIR tube bracket.
I would have never figured out the fan bracket. I should have tanken mor pictures during engine removal and disassembly.

The truck is running great, but leaking oil from what appears to be the rear crankshaft seal, so I clearly did something wrong (oil is dripping out around the two black plastic fillers at the bottom of the bell housing.) The manufacturer's shop manual really stinks for this vehicle.

Ron
Did you use an Oil Pan Gasket? Or just Ultra Grey RTV like Mazda used?

Most gasket kits, and most gasket makers including FelPro, make an oil pan gasket......Mazda never used one. If you did, your probably leaking from the oil pan and it's getting blown backwards to the bell housing.

Hard to see here, but there is RTV under the windage tray, and then after this pic, I also put a thin layer on the windage tray and oil pan rail before I put it on.

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Pan installed....

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After paint.....

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Going on 12 years since the rebuild, and no oil leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did use the gasket that game with the kit. Between the lower-engine and upper-engine kits, there were a lot of extra gaskets, so I assume the kits were for multiple Mazda engines.

My truck is a 1986 B2000, and it does not have the separate tray below the crankshaft.

After I started it up for the first time after the rebuild, oil was dripping from those two black filler pieces in the bell housing. When I pulled it out of the garage to park it on the street, it dripped nice clean oil all the way up my driveway, and within a few minutes of shutting off the engine, there was a puddle of oil at least 6 inches in diameter. I think there is too much oil for it to be the oil pan.

The crankshaft seal consisted of the round oil seal, that mounts in the aluminum plate, and the gasket for the aluminum plate. Older cars I have worked on included some sort of separate seal for the rear main cap.

I will get it back up in the air, and, with the engine running, look closer to locate the source of the oil leak.

Thanks.
Ron
 

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Do you have a name or link to the gasket kit you used?

One of the things I try to advise others about is to not use a "rebuild kit" for these engines......there are a lot of inexpensive rebuild kits online and generally they have issues with the hard parts as well as the gaskets they contain.

I typically buy name brand parts separately from RockAuto or through Amazon when Googling the part numbers of the hard parts & gaskets.......I get better results this way.

Felpro or Mazda on the head gaskets is what I've always used, and most of the time I will use FelPro for the rest of the gaskets. I do speak from hands on experience rebuilding these Mazda engines......I have rebuilt multiple B2000 (FE), B2200 (F2), and B2600i (G6) engines over the last 20 years or so.

One thing that comes to mind is......years ago I rebuilt a 2.8L, 60 degree V6 engine in a GMC S15 Jimmy.....had the crank machined and all.....used a FelPro rear main (one piece) seal.....apparently, the Machinist must have forgotten to polish the oil seal journal after "cleaning up" the slight groove where the old seal had cut into the crank. I had noticed that it looked "dull" there, but put it together anyway.......that new engine ran great, but would drip a drop a minute when it was running/idling. I sold the Jimmy and let the new owner know this, but he didn't seem to mind the oil drips.

So sometimes, it is stuff that is out of your control that tends to screw up a good rebuild, and you need a keen eye and lots of experience to catch something that may be an issue after you put the engine together! Every rebuild you will learn new stuff, that's for sure!

Keep us posted on what you find. Thanks.
 

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When I did my own oil pan gasket on my own 1988 B2200 (two times since 1994), I only used sealant (Permatex Ultra Grey).

But at 230K when I had my engine remanufactured in early 2020 by a local engine building company, I had an oil pan leak, so took it back under its leak warranty, and also printed pages from the service manual showing to use sealant only and they repaired using sealant only.

My guess - and only a guess - is that when using a gasket folks still torque to correct setting, and that torque distorts the pan gasket so it leaks. Or they omit using sealant on the interfaces like where the oil pump contacts the block/pan surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Earl,

The gasket sets were from Enginetech, through Rockauto.
The oil pan gasket was cork. It overlapped the oil pan and block at the rear of the engine, so I trimmed off the excess to allow the sheet metal flywheel cover to fit.

Since the oil feeding into the oil pan is not under any pressure, but rather just gravity flow, the amount of oil seems too great to me, especially since it was dripping while the truck was still on jack stands.

I will check it out, hopefully on Friday, and post back here.

Thanks.
Ron
 
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