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Build Thread - B2600i 4x4

45K views 285 replies 14 participants last post by  Axel Breaker Earl  
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I think you learned after major cooling system work to first fill up with tap water, and ensure no leaks. And then drain the water and get to your 50/50.....
 
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I seem to remember getting a rubber O-ring from the hardware store to fit in there on my B2200 distributor.
 
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I'm experienced in old VWs, and Your bellhousing looks fine to me. And I haven't heard of anyone greasing a new throwout bearing on anything.

You'll use a clutch tool to align the clutch disc before the pressure plate is installed/bolted down to the flywheel.
 
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She broke her foot better than I broke that motor… it’s full on surgery and pins and screws
Make sure they use metric screws, as you already have metric tools....
 
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Now you need a good alignment. I do all my vehicles with string, tapemeasure, jackstands to run strings parrellel and have great success with it.
I use tape measure to do the tow on my 1988 B2200 and other vehicles. I just persuade Mrs. Cusser or my daughter to help hold the one side of the tape measure (if I can pry the phone out of their hand....)
 
I have an oil pressure gauge on my 1971 VW with 1835cc engine, which also has a tach. I figure 10psi oil pressure for each 1000 rpm, so 30psi at 3000 rpm.
 
Also cleaned up the endcaps and bumper and painted both. Endcaps got painted with Eastwoods plastic restore paint. Works REALLY well. Bumper is just satin black from the Autoparts store.
I used Krylon Fusion on mine years ago, have been satisfied.
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I'm afraid the old Mazda emblems I have are medium condition and would need to be glued on (like mine is) and letters repainted. And I'm not sure how many of these I still have...
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I'm afraid you'll need to take apart a fair amount of dash to access/replace that top panel and passenger vent.
 
Good job, Josh !!! We all learned a lot.
 
Any one ever had problems with the temperature guage not reading?
Common issue on the B2200 engines as folks knock the brittle wire off the sending unit. As to your B2600i, I don't know where your sending unit is, but look for it. It could also be your METER fuse if the fuel level gauge is also inoperable.
 
So.....Cusser.....on those blue wires......I have bought the same ones before. Numbers were not correct. They probably are correct for a certain Ford 4-cyl. vehicle, and someone figured that they will work on a Mazda also. No problem though......those wires are so dumb, they don't even know what number they are!! ;)
I was just pi$$ed that I bought premium wires that were confirmed to fit, and the numbers for the B2200 were reversed. I never considered sending them back as figured that
(1) any replacement of that same part number would be same
(2) that I was smarter than any spark plug wires and would just re-label them
(3) I'd just contact Amazon to let them know, I know big corporations really care about the mental well-being of all their customers

Back in 2004 I was having intermittent running issues on my '88 B2200 that local mechanic felt was due to stock carburetor, said it smoothed out when he added propane from an unlit torch, but later was found to be intermittent pickup and ignitor in distributor. But first I tried new spark plug wires from CarQuest and the wires themselves developed cracks after a year, so I went back to the original factory wires. When I had "cranks but intermittent failure to start" issue in 2022, I figured why not get new wires, so I got the NGK ones....
 
Are those NGK #9134 sparkplug wires? Because I ordered #9134 for my B2200 a couple of years ago, and the numbers on mine were reversed, with labeled #1 being the longest, etc.

Amazon stated they were a confirmed fit for my B2200, so I asked them WTF, and they let me keep them for free. I just re-labeled them, they work fine.

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The photo above is with my aftermarket distributor (note the thinner baseplate, which needed a shorter 8mm x 1.25mm bolt) before I re-stabbed it and got the ignition timing right on; with the initial install I was at the limit of the slot and could not achieve correct timing.
 
A little grease on the transmission shaft splines, and put a little on the starter teeth.
 
I will do that. Not sure how to post pictures but maybe I can figure it out.
If I can post pictures, anyone can. At the bottom edge of the "Reply" window, the 11th symbol is a rectangle with a picture of a mountain in it (just left of the little picture that somewhat looks like a camera). Click on that, and you have option of uploading a photo already saved on your computer or phone, or by pasting in its URL. I use a laptop (now on Windows 10 !!!) so may be a little different using a smartphone.
 
Broken leg ?? As Groucho would say: "that's the lamest excuse I've ever heard !!!!"

Way back in 1985, at Christmas at her family home, Mrs. Cusser slipped and broke her foot. Upon her return, she asked if I was the first "casted gal" I'd bedded (well, actually she was the second, in 1979 girlfriend broke her arm and had a fiberglass cast, and I told her because I don't lie). When folks asked when she'd get her cast off, Mrs. Cusser said I was her cast-off.
 
AB Earl, thanks for the pics. I did adjust the orientation of the oil cooler. Still waiting on the hoses to be delivered.

Next question, I can't find the firing order/plug wire orientation anywhere in my manual. (service manual) so quick internet research showed me the the following. Is this correct?


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I'm not experienced with B2600i engines.

But I do have the 1992 Service Manual. B2600i firing order is 1-3-4-2, you are correct. Your diagram shows spark plugs on opposite side of cylinder head than a B2600i (could diagram be from a Mitsubishi 1987-1988 B2600 instead of a B2600i?? I didn't search that).

At TDC for #1, is the distributor rotor under where your #1 spark plug wire is? Because the diagram you posted shows #1 different than the 9 o'clock position as shown in your photos. Watch this video

By the way: B2200 engines also have #1 position at 9 o'clock.