[Roverjosh]

In response to the Pilot Bearing questions, yes I 100% installed a brand new pilot bearing. The one that was supplied with the clutch kit. I put a little of the Molybdenum high temp lube I got that was as close to the "mazda suggested" stuff. I plan on putting a little of that same stuff on the input shaft prior to install.

So to add some pics of what I’ve been doing between work, vacations, house issues, life in general. I keep doing down the rabbit hole and finding new things to paint. I never should have painted the engine bay cuz now I want to pull the body off and do a frame off resto….
I am not going to do that.
I have mitigated the small rust stuff I found and I am leaving it at that for now.
Here’s some pics of the progress

and for fun, here’s a pic of Jupiter.

 

[mr_Chevy]

Hey Rover, any new updates? I’ve been a silent follower of this thread. I’m not far behind you in my rebuild.

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

Yeah! We're waiting impatiently!

Here's a little update on what I have done on a few of my trucks.....

Last couple of weekends I have done some work on my 1993 B2600i 4x4 truck to get it closer to getting back on the road again.......it's been sitting too long! I pulled the bed off and removed the fuel pump & gauge in order to clean out the electric fuel pump and get it spinning again. The last two years I have just drove it around the yard because the front differential needs rebuilding or replacing.....I have a spare diff cleaned up and ready to swap in now! Consequently, the fuel in the tank was getting old, and it had developed a smell and was getting "sticky" and was keeping the fuel pump from spinning as it should.
Once I had that job done, I had a fairly new Walker exhaust system that I saved from a junk truck that I scrapped, so I installed that while the bed was removed......much easier! And now she has a nice complete exhaust that is sounding beautiful!

And today, I added some freon to my little red truck this afternoon once I got home from work. I've been noticing that it hasn't been cooling off as quickly as it usually does, over the past couple of weeks, so I added a 12oz can to the system. Looks like I am getting some grease around the perimeter of the clutch at the front of the compressor. I'll continue watching it and monitoring the dash vent thermometer that I leave in there.......and I have those on most of my trucks, just to give me a quick visual reference of how the system is operating. In Florida, you keep an eye on your summer life support systems!!

 

[Roverjosh]

So first off, thank you all for reading my thread… even though I have had NO time to work on the little bugger. Over the last few months I’ve been slammed with just all sorts of life stuff. Culminating in my kid graduating from High School, yay!
So now that things are calming down a tad… I can try to get that damn engine in the truck. Maybe even this weekend…

more soon.

as for AB Earls truck, i see there are headers still available from Australia. Do yiu think they are worth it? I meed to redo the whole exhaust anyway so i may pick one up instead of using the stock manifold.

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

YES! Anytime that you can remove some weight off of the front of the truck, and add a tad of performance (probably only 3-5 horsepower though), then it's a no brainer! Congrats on the kid's graduation!!

 

[mr_Chevy]

Yes. Congrats!

I recently got my engine back in its home. I also managed to fit this 3 row aluminum radiator under my hood. It’s for a 98 model Tacoma. Fits nice and snug between the frame rails. I did have to cut out the crossmember up front where the power steering lines attach.

I

 

[Sideshow57]

Hey All, Couple questions. rebuild my 92 B2600i motor and getting it slowly back together and wondering about the torque specs where it says 27-45 ft-lbs is that a two step procedure? and am I using blue locktite?

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

No......that is a "range" for the torque value. You can use any value within that range. None of the fasteners on the B2600i engine are Torque-To-Yield fasteners.

Which bolts are you wondering if you need to use Loctite on?

 

[Sideshow57]

Ok thank you!

On the balancer gears for the timing chain, the bolts that hold those. and also how much tension on the tensioning arm for the chain?

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

Go ahead and start a new thread for your truck/engine build, or whatever you would like to name it, and I will respond to it on your thread Slideshow57.........that way we are not taking over Roverjosh's build thread.....and confusing other members. Thanks!

 

[Roverjosh]

No worries at all on using my thread. I rhibk i might have even asked those same questions. Dig back through my thread when i was at that stage and it may be in there.
In the meantime, let me look in my shop manual to see what it says.
Nice Dirt bike btw… thats my next toy.

 

[Sideshow57]

So I solved the lifter issue... I had them in upside down.. ughhh. Pulled them all out and re-primed and re-installed, all good. what a dummy, even showed the correct way in the service manual. next question is I just about have it ready to fire off. Should I pull the coil wire and crank it a few times? and when and if it starts and break-in procedure?

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

DOH!
Since you didn't start it like that, you should be good. When you do start it, if there is some valvetrain ticking, give it some time to let the oil flow into the HLA's and it should quiet up soon after reaching full temp.

If you used assembly lube on the cam, rockers, timing & balance chains, timing sprockets, all bearings, etc. then you can crank it up like it sits........make sure you have oil and coolant installed of course. No real need to run the engine at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes and all of that for these engines, unless you have installed a brand new camshaft. If so, then you must have assembly lube on the cam, and then crank the engine and let it run at 2000 to 2400 rpm for about 20 minutes or so.

If you have a used cam installed, then it is already broke in and no need to run the engine after starting it for the first time, like if you had a new cam.

Keep an eye on the temp when and if you do run the engine to break in a new cam.......your stock temp gauge shouldn't get any higher than a 1/3rd on the stock scale........if it does, shut it down and figure out why the temp is higher than it should be. If you are breaking in a new cam, make sure your fan shroud is in place before starting the engine......the shroud will help keep the engine at the normal temp.

Let us know how it goes!

 

[Sideshow57]

I did use assembly grease on everything. I re-primed the HLA's and filled the rocker arm reservoirs with oil per the service manual. I do have a new cam so I'll do the 20-minut break in. I will have the shroud on and fluids all good to go. Thank you so much!

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

You're welcome. Let us know how it goes, and good luck!

 

[Toker69420]

You are definitely on the right track with your rebuild. I have rebuilt several of the G6 [2600i] engines (as well as the FE [B2000] & F2 [B2200] engines) and every time, I just cleaned everything and installed new bearings (less the balance shaft bearings) and rings, gaskets, oil pump, etc.

I believe that the metal in these Mazda engine blocks is very good, and you hardly ever see a ridge at the top of the cylinders......if your piston skirts do not have deep vertical scoring (scuffs are fine) then you can actually re-use the factory pistons......I have done this and my engines are still going strong. My way of thinking is, if boring and new pistons are not really needed, then re-use the originals if in good shape.......you will still get plenty of miles out of the engine when rebuilding them like this......I can attest to that!!

You may want to spring for a new oil pump though, and unfortunately, they include the timing chain cover also, and therefore are quite expensive ($300.00 or so).......but good insurance for your new bearings!

I will post some pics of some of my G6 rebuilds soon.......gotta get some dinner right now!

Where can I find the passenger balance shaft idler sprocket? The balance chain timing sprocket and meshed gear riding on a bearing. Jim Ellis Mazda says it's discontinued, but I see it in your rebuild pictures. My truck is parked without it.

 

[Roverjosh]

Ok team. So sorry i haven’t had time to get any work done on the truck…

that being said, the motor is in!!!

I will not lie, it went in way easier than I expected. I’ve never installed a motor before but I watched tons of videos on YouTube and I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night, so let’s call it good.

More to come, but it’s in. Still need to put all the tranny bolts and lower engine to transmission mounts back together but bell housing is flush, and the motor mounts are tight.

wish me luck

.

 

[Cussboy]

Are those NGK #9134 sparkplug wires? Because I ordered #9134 for my B2200 a couple of years ago, and the numbers on mine were reversed, with labeled #1 being the longest, etc.

Amazon stated they were a confirmed fit for my B2200, so I asked them WTF, and they let me keep them for free. I just re-labeled them, they work fine.

The photo above is with my aftermarket distributor (note the thinner baseplate, which needed a shorter 8mm x 1.25mm bolt) before I re-stabbed it and got the ignition timing right on; with the initial install I was at the limit of the slot and could not achieve correct timing.

 

[Roverjosh]

Cuss boy,
Honestly I bought those wires so long ago (cuz I’m slow) I can’t remember what model they are. I did look at them and they are numbered correctly. Yours must have been a simple manufacturing mistake. Cool you got them free! That’s shows good support.

So I have some conce. Since I assembled this so long again (again, cuz I’m slow) and. I can’t remember how much assembly lube I used. I know it was a decent amount on the rings, timing shafts, chains, etc, but should I have used more? Should I pull the Valve cover and reprime/coat the rocker assembly with oil? Do I need to “prime” the engine somehow?

I still have to finish all the transmission mounting bolts etc., a new clutch slave cylinder install (mine was rotted out) and bleeding the system. I watched a video on the YouTubes on how to bleed a clutch. I’ve only ever done brakes. It looks pretty much the same….

Anything else you think I should do/check before the inaugural first start?

thanks again to all you awesome people!

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

I think you will be fine Josh......no need to re-apply any assy. lube. You will get some valvetrain noise more than likely, until all HLA's get fully primed with oil. Make sure that your fan shroud is in place so that the engine coolant is getting cooled by the radiator like it should......watch your temp gauge and if it starts climbing above the halfway mark, shut the engine down and let it cool off, and after it does, crank it and run it some more. The fuel in your tank is probably not in the best of shape, so if it smells funny, drain it and put some fresh gas in it. How long has the gas been sitting in it? And was it Ethanol gas?

If the gas is more than 2 years old, and it is Ethanol gas......DRAIN IT!!! And put some fresh gas in it. Old Ethanol gas gets "Sticky" and it will cause your fuel pump to not be able to start turning......ask me how I know this! OK....I just went through this ordeal with my 4x4 truck!
I drained all of that bad gas (mixed with good gas) and ran it through my B2200 truck because it has a mechanical fuel pump, and the sticky gas ain't gonna stop that pump from working!