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I have a 95 milly and first off my check eng light wont go off. I changed a few sensors and it went off 4 a day. and problem number two I would be driving and the car just shuts off. It will be running fine and then all of a sudden shut down. both stopped and while driving can anyone help me
 

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My check engine light turned out to be a faulty O2 sensor... which was going to cost a lot to fix... but not as costly as the engine rebuild that I had to get 3 weeks later. (!) the last day I drove my car before the rebuild it was doing kind of what yours is. I doubt it is that though, cuz seriously you would know. It felt like my car was running on 2 cylinders.. it was louder than f*ck, and it would die whenever I did not have my foot on the gas. hope you don't have an S model.
 

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I have a similar problem with my TCS light. Sometimes when I'm driving my TCS light will turn on (and the TCS OFF light on the right of the cluster). When this happens I can't drive my car over 2500 rpm or else it dies. If I pull over and shut my car off and restart it, the light turns off. The dealer told me that it is my fault and I am tricking the computer. Yeah right it happens even when I just cruisin down the road. My check engine light is also on. Due to a bad MAF/MASS airflow sensor, which controls the mixture of fuel to air.
 

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Guess what I also have the same problem with my 95 Mille S, I was told it could be a vaccumm hose that's leaking or the switch next to the gears. I was pressing the TCS off button , when I press the button it say TCS off, when I press again it shuts off, when I press it again it shows TCS off , when I press it again the light doesn't shut off it stays lite. I kept hitting the button and it doesn't shut off at all I was wondering if the switch is bad or the computer is bad. I did a tune up, replace the Intake Manifold gasket, because they told me there was an air leak. I'm getting tired of putting money into the car, let's hope someone could give us a good suggestion to solve this problem. :angry:



Last edited by EdsMille95 at Sep 23 2002, 08:10 AM
 

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the most common cause of the check engine light comming on in most cars is the O2(oxygen sensor). My car had the same problem. And so does most of the millenias that come into the shop I work in.
 

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:'(
Ok, I have the Millenia S 98. I have 3 problems that are beginning to put me in the poorhouse.

1 - The least of my worries is that my steering wheel no longer pivots up and down automatically as I enter/remove the key from the ignition. Sometimes the button on the side won't react either to adjust the position of the wheel. It makes a clicking noise when I apply pressure to the nob but no movement of the steering wheel.

2- Quite randomly, the engine light illuminates and stays on. I have to take it into the garage, and they reset the Computer's main control center(There is an acronym for this that I can't remember right now.) ECM, Executive Command Module.. something like that. And things are back to normal for a little while.

3- The craziest concern of all is that my car will be turning over smoothly for a couple of weeks, and then out of nowhere.... it refuses to turn over. It turns, but will catch and stall. At first I was told that this was a security issue as the Security light on the dash does not illuminate when I unlock and lock the car from the door console. When I use the remote pad to unlock/lock, the Security light illuminates... though the car still won't start. Yikes!

With some research, it could be that the ring in the ignition no longer recognizes the chip in the key(security). No luck with the Valet key either! This happened yesterday and the garage said that this problem could be related could be the fuel pump!? What's going on with my Millenia? It was treated like a baby, and cleaned with diapers for years... Why is it acting up?

Lost in Millenia S problems... Open to suggestions.... please.
 

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I've said this like 12 times today now, if you have a CEL on then go to autozone or wherever and have it read! the code will tell you what's wrong!

vacuum hose leak is entirely possible, and there are TONS of vacuum hoses in the S! a whole mess to put back together, so I decided that I wont and I'll just drop in my new engine when I get it.

I strongly recommend taking it to a competent mazda mechanic, and if you want to take an extra step (and pay lots of extra $$$) then a dealership. from most people's experiences on here, i recommend staying AWAY from most dealerships for your problems just because a) they like to throw COSTLY parts at a problem, and b ) they often times give you a runaround, and sometimes it seems like they're doing it on purpose! :grr:
 

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please remember everybody, the miller-cycle is not exactly a common engine, it has all kinds of features, quarks, and interesting little tweaks to it that you don't want discount jose's gas mech looking over.
 

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Originally posted by ///BHRpowered@Jan 16 2004, 01:55 PM
please remember everybody, the miller-cycle is not exactly a common engine,
I wish I could change that :'(
 

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Originally posted by ///BHRpowered@Jan 16 2004, 01:55 PM
please remember everybody, the miller-cycle is not exactly a common engine, it has all kinds of features, quarks, and interesting little tweaks to it that you don't want discount jose's gas mech looking over.
So the cams are timed differently and there's a blower. It should be a bit simpler than VVTi, Valvtronic, or Saab's crazy tilting-head variable-compression technology.
 

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I have a '95 millenia that gave me the same problems. Car would just shut down for no apparent reason. Afer letting it sit for 10 min. or so, it would start as if nothing ever happened. Turned out to be the EGR booster sensor. The '95 millenias had a problem with these going out and it may very well be your problem.
I ordered one from AA Auto of Little Rock, Ark.(Salvage yard for foreign car)1-800-336-2231. $45.00 shipped to my door. The sensor is located on the fire wall(upper center) and has a couple of vacuum hoses and an electrical plug. Very easy install.(5-10 min.) I hope this helps you out.
 

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(Car just shuts off)
I responded to the orignal post that I purchased an Oxygen boost sensor for the remedy. It's actually EGR Boost Sensor. I've since edited the reply. Sorry if I misled anyone.
 

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I've got a CE light also....found out what it is though. Knock sensor and a frozen EGR Valve. I have the parts..but the problem is just getting somebody to put it in for me. Nobody wants to remove the engine and place it back in. It's a big job

I've been driving a while with it like that...it used to flash but then I did cleaned the fuel injectors, changed my wires, distributor cap and rotor. Hasn't flashed since, but I just wanted to know how long can I go with frozen egr valve, and knock sensor. Am I doing major damage to my engine?
 

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Yeah I know...I got an estimate from one mechanic and he told me that it would cost 325 to replace the EGR Valve and Knock Sensor. And he said that I might have to change the bushings as well.
 

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Matter of fact I took my car to a mazda tech...and they told me that to change the knock sensor the engine must be removed. I noticed that the EGR Valve is at the back of the engine. Not to sure if you have to remove the engine but it's pretty tight back there....
 
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