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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a genuine Redline Weber 32/36 DGEV on my 1988 B2200 5-speed since back in 2005. I know how to set the idle mixture screw and idle speed screw. I was wondering how one can DISABLE the fast idle system. Thanks.
 

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In Florida, we have some cold weather, but not much.......I have my maximum fast idle speed (when the engine is cold) set at about 1200 RPM......most Weber's are factory set higher than that. I don't need it any higher where I live.......I don't like my engine revving so high when you start the engine and it is cold.

If you would like to lower your engine speed during warm up, after starting your COLD engine, just slip a small, flat blade screwdriver in through the linkage (from the front of the carb.....see video!) and engage the fast idle adjustment screw, and turn the screw counter-clockwise, to lower the fast idle speed to a comfortable speed.....for YOU!

It may be easier to see the fast idle adjustment screw, if the air cleaner is removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have watched that video several times, and have adjusted my own fast idle screw, but not sure that it's actually doing anything. My issue is that engine will idle at 1000 rpm, then after a few minutes of running the idle can be 1400 rpm. Other than that, it runs great. I guess the idle being 1400 rpm after warm-up bothers me.

When I set the idle down (with engine warmed up), then it tends to stall just sitting in neutral there in the driveway.


If you would like to lower your engine speed during warm up, after starting your COLD engine, just slip a small, flat blade screwdriver in through the linkage (from the front of the carb.....see video!) and engage the fast idle adjustment screw, and turn the screw counter-clockwise, to lower the fast idle speed to a comfortable speed.l
OK - so counter-clockwise of the fast idle screw lowers the rpm, that's part of what I needed to know. My B2200 gets parked in an Arizona garage, so typically is 50F or warmer in there.

I can access the fast idle screw, but would need to take off the air cleaner and the bottom mount of the air cleaner to take a good look and try to understand it. Thanks.
 

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So.....if when you "kick down" the high idle, the engine RPM's lower too much, to where the engine will stall, then you may need to increase the electric choke tension on the choke plate(s) by loosening the three small locking screws on the electric choke heater, and turning the electric choke slightly (small increments at a time) in the direction where it puts MORE tension on the choke flaps. What this does is, it keeps the choke engaged longer, as it takes more time for the choke heater to warm up the bi-metal coil spring inside of it.......therefore, allowing the engine to warm up longer!

Keep in mind.......turning the choke heater to create more choke flap tension, DOES NOT increase the engine RPM's......it simply keeps the choke engaged longer, since it has to heat up longer, for the bi-metal coil spring to "remove" the choke flap tension!

The system is infinitely adjustable.......once you understand how it all works! Play with it Keith.....you will understand it even more! Let me know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will "play" with this over the next couple of weeks.

I've run a single Weber 40DCNF on my VW 1835cc engine since back in 1976, and that has absolutely no choke or anything for low temperature/cold temperature start-up. My other old VW with 1600cc engine has a stock-type carburetor with a typical choke set-up like on the DGEV.
 

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As Mazda Mitch explains in his YT video, there are several "steps" on the fast idle "cam" within the carb linkage. The tighter the choke flap tension is, the more apt the system will use all "steps" on the fast idle cam.......as he explains, his truck's choke tension is set up to only drop the idle down to the next cam "plateau" when he "kicks down" or "gooses" the throttle, 5 or 10 seconds after starting the engine.......from 2000 rpm, to 1000 rpm. After the engine warms up a little more, then he kicks down, or gooses the throttle once again, to fully remove or dis-engage the fast idle cam.

MY truck is set where I have a low tension on my choke plates.......when I kick down the throttle, it completely removes the fast idle......as it is mostly warmer here in the mornings......also why I have the fast idle RPM's turned down to around 1200 rpm when starting the engine cold.

I love a good carburetor!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A few days ago, I turned the fast-idle screw out one complete turn, I also turned the choke element (after marking its position) a little counter-clockwise. And I turned the idle speed screw counter-clockwise 1/6 of a turn (from 2 o'clock to 12 o'clock) to try out. I did not touch the idle mixture screw at all, it's out 2 full turns.

Am I correct that the "fast idle screw" should only have effect in the first couple of minutes (or less) anyway? I've never been too concerned about how any of my carbureted vehicles ran in their first couple of minutes; that includes my 1970 and 1971 VWs (the 1970 is 1600cc and has an electric choke, the 1971 is 1835cc with a single Weber 40DCNF and no choke at all).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
1988 B2200 5-speed with genuine Redline Weber since 2005. I'm reasonably happy with where I have the idle mixture screw (1 and 7/8 turns out) and the idle speed screw adjusted. And I turned the electric choke a little counter-clockwise. So happy, no stalling.

But starting like10 minutes in, when stopped at a traffic light with idle speed at 1000 rpm, maybe 15 to 30 seconds later the idle speed goes up to about 1400 rpm. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmmmm.......are you sure that there are no vacuum leaks? Check those Golf tees for any......leakage. ;)
Well, I sanded both adapters and re-sealed all that using Permatex Aviation a couple of months ago, had been getting up and down variations in idle before that. Maybe wouldn't hurt to add new tubing to close off those vacuum ports, once I feel better...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You sick?
If so, I hope you get better quickly!
Tested positive for Covid-19 today. I've had 3 vaccinations. Guess my anti-virus software wasn't up to date !!!

I guess those 4 events over the weekend for my nephew's wedding was just too much, maybe a super-spreader according to family members. I think shaving on Friday (first time since 2013) lowered my defenses.
 

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I hope you get better SOON! I didn't do any of the vaccines, but have had Covid once......worst symptom was a splitting headache.......never had a headache like that! Went to the emergency room after noticing that my blood oxygen level was dropping. They gave me a shot for the headache, and it was gone in 30 minutes. Sent me back home after monitoring me for a couple of hours......and I had to take a covid vacation at home for a week! Got paid while I sat at home also! Worked out good for me.
Hope you get well soon buddy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mrs. Cusser had the doctor call me. I hadn't seen him since my kidney stone in 2015. Basically said to use tylenol or cold medicine, that the paxlovid wasn't right for me as I'm already feeling significantly better, and I'd had 3 vaccinations. So I need to isolate like 5 days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I feel quite better now, but will continue to isolate a few more days. Mrs. Cusser still has pretty bad symptoms like coughing and congestion, but flaunts it that she tested negative twice. But she's still sick.....and more stubborn...

I'll try to re-plumb those intake manifold vacuum ports this weekend...this is just a minor annoyance, truck runs great otherwise... and with AC weather approaching, I'll need the higher rpm anyway.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'll try to re-plumb those intake manifold vacuum ports this weekend...this is just a minor annoyance, truck runs great otherwise... and with AC weather approaching, I'll need the higher rpm anyway.....
I did re-plumb those vacuum ports, connecting to each other with looped tubing as best I could. I will need to drive a few days to assess whether better/worse/same.

Still have a little congestion from the Covid, and even this morning Mrs. Cusser says she's turned the corner, so looks like we'll survive....
 
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