Looks like Mazda has a history of using Mitsubishi Electric Company electronics, as that ECM board shows. I noticed the headlight set, the key fob, and a few parts on the engine of my car were Mitsubishi Electric. I didn’t even think they made car parts outside of Mitsubishis.
Going @#%$^@$ crazy here!
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An experience of mine:
My best truck is a 2004 Nissan Frontier, 143hp 4-cylinder (timing chain), 5-speed, 108K miles, pristine, air bags, ABS, my truck for the future. My '88 B2200 Cab Plus is my daily driver.
I'd been having two Check Engine Codes for a couple of years, and EGR Heater code, and a fuel level code (lie to warn if fuel got real low and one ignored the fuel gauge); truck ran the same/well, took it on some out of state vacations.
Then during a big backup on the Interstate, it would stall every time I stopped, whether in neutral or my foot pushed down on the clutch pedal, anywhere from 15 seconds to a minute after I sat motionless. The EGR heater needed a special deep 14mm socket with a slit to install (which I didn't have) and was expensive part. And I was not going to remove the gas tank to address the fuel level code. But main thing was the stalling, so asked my local ASE mechanic, and he told me his equipment didn't go deep enough for that stalling system with those codes. So I took it to a respected local ASE shop; they found one pin on the multi-pin connector for the computer to be bent, and installed a new oxygen sensor (for which I had no code). So $624 later the truck was fixed; that was 2 years ago, no error codes, and the truck hasn't stalled. I think it would've been impossible in a zillion years for me to fix that by myself; neither was obvious at all from the two Check Engine codes I had.
I wasn't thrilled about spending $624, but I'm thrilled to have the truck fixed !!!
![Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Car Land vehicle]()
My best truck is a 2004 Nissan Frontier, 143hp 4-cylinder (timing chain), 5-speed, 108K miles, pristine, air bags, ABS, my truck for the future. My '88 B2200 Cab Plus is my daily driver.
I'd been having two Check Engine Codes for a couple of years, and EGR Heater code, and a fuel level code (lie to warn if fuel got real low and one ignored the fuel gauge); truck ran the same/well, took it on some out of state vacations.
Then during a big backup on the Interstate, it would stall every time I stopped, whether in neutral or my foot pushed down on the clutch pedal, anywhere from 15 seconds to a minute after I sat motionless. The EGR heater needed a special deep 14mm socket with a slit to install (which I didn't have) and was expensive part. And I was not going to remove the gas tank to address the fuel level code. But main thing was the stalling, so asked my local ASE mechanic, and he told me his equipment didn't go deep enough for that stalling system with those codes. So I took it to a respected local ASE shop; they found one pin on the multi-pin connector for the computer to be bent, and installed a new oxygen sensor (for which I had no code). So $624 later the truck was fixed; that was 2 years ago, no error codes, and the truck hasn't stalled. I think it would've been impossible in a zillion years for me to fix that by myself; neither was obvious at all from the two Check Engine codes I had.
I wasn't thrilled about spending $624, but I'm thrilled to have the truck fixed !!!
Am c
Am currently in process of replacing the Master clutch cylinder. All those videos make everything soooooo easy. So, I attaching pics here of the new and old cylinders together. No real signs of leakage but din't know why all the corrosion around the inside where the pushrod goes in. Also, the fluid was pretty dark and alot of "sludge" on the bottom of the fluid tank!
Well so far, everything that could go wrong.........has!!! Actually removing and replacing the master clutch cylinder was the easiest albeit not so easy!!! This 73 yr. old body doesn't bend and twist like it used to. Alot of corrosion around where the pushrod connects to the master cylinder but no leakage, at least that I could see. The videos you see make you think you've really got this and BAM. ...it wasn't even close!!!!! I'm posting a couple of pics if the master....a lot of sludge on the bottom.
As for the slave clutch cylinder..........way different story!!!! First, I had to jack up the front right side so I could slide around underneath. Loosening the bolts was pretty easy speedy but oh that stinking rubber hose!!!!!!! Long story short and after calling my auto parts store to ensure they could get me what I need, I went ahead and cut the rubber hose! I suspect this was the real culprit as fluid was coming out from the push rod opening. I'm sending a before pic more to follow later.
![Automotive tire Wood Gas Motor vehicle Auto part]()
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Hood Automotive exterior]()
Thank you for that! I was planning on flushing out all the old fluid out first before connecting to the slave cylinder. Then hopefully it'll be a whole new system again. Will keep you updated! Thanks again!!!!
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UPDATE.. Finally got it all done!!!! Took longer as I had to return the new slave cylinder. Leaking behind the boot! Before even attempting to pump the clutch, I first vacuum bled until I was getting new fluid out. Then I bled the old fashioned way. This morning I went to vacj and checked andctgr clutch pedal was still up and had pressure. As I was underneath double checking all the connections, etc. I happened upon something a little shocking as I hadn't noticed it before. See attached photo to see if you see it. This one is a little over my head. Thoughrs???????![Water Human body Dress Flash photography Organism]()
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