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Going @#%$^@$ crazy here!

2677 Views 40 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  C J
I have a 1992 B2600i. It was given to me and I know about issues with the fuel pump on it's way out. And when I first got the truck there were no issues, other than having to pull over to vent the gas tank.
When the weather started to cool off but not yet cold, I could no longer just start up and go. It idled fine (1500rpm) but when I gave it gave gas it would drop down to 500rpm or so and when I took my foot off of the gas, it rose back up to 1500rpm.after maybe 15 min. or so, I could give it gas and it wouldn't die down and I could take off. I could put up with this for a while.
A while has passed and I can't take it, Now I have trouble even starting it. I have to pump the gas four or five times, take my foot off of the gas and then try to start it. It would catch but a no go. I then started to just leave the key fully turned to keep the starter running and it if caught, I'd let the key go. Id' still have to let it idle for quite awhile.
So, thinking it may be a thermal sensor, I'd let the truck idle for a bit and then turn it off. I was thinking that the engine compartment would be warming up the sensors. Sometimes it would work and sometimes, not! Since my truck is too old to do a OBD reading, I have to shoot in the dark.I took of the mass air flow and cleaned it with that spray stuff. Both ends were covered in a black like soot. I made sure it was clean and put it back on. My next thought was if the mass air sensor looks like this then what does the air filter look like? I went it to the auto parts store and had to order one. My next escapade will be to completely tear down the air intake system and fully clean it, including the throttle body and all. I have one question and I can't find the answer to it anywhere!!!!! Behind the air intake "pipe" there's a sensor coming out of it going into a black box and I found the name or "RESONANCE CHAMBER"!!!! Does anyone here have a clue what it's for and it's purpose????? Thank you for any and all help/suggestion that you may be able to contribute!!!!!
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Looks like Mazda has a history of using Mitsubishi Electric Company electronics, as that ECM board shows. I noticed the headlight set, the key fob, and a few parts on the engine of my car were Mitsubishi Electric. I didn’t even think they made car parts outside of Mitsubishis.
Looks like Mazda has a history of using Mitsubishi Electric Company electronics, as that ECM board shows. I noticed the headlight set, the key fob, and a few parts on the engine of my car were Mitsubishi Electric.
What about starter, alternator......
What about starter, alternator......
No clue on those, when I’m checking my oil I’ll see if I can see a label or something on the alternator, and starter. I’m still figuring out what is what on this engine besides the common stuff. Never had a DI engine, nor anything this advanced before.
Never had a DI engine, nor anything this advanced before.
DI engine?

You must have a newer Mazda......these trucks (B-Series Forum) never had Direct Injection. Fuel Injection, yes.......but only into the intake manifold.
DI engine?

You must have a newer Mazda......these trucks (B-Series Forum) never had Direct Injection. Fuel Injection, yes.......but only into the intake manifold.
Ooops distracted posting at work >_< lol yeah I have a 22 Mazda 3 😅
UPDATE>>>>>>>>>> Today, I went ahead and replaced the water thermo sensor.. Having the engine already "warmed up" couldn't really tell much other than the fact that the idle is somewhat irratic. It doesn't really stay at one speed and tends to go way up and then down. I'll know more later or tomorrow when I really try a cold start! If this doesn't work, I'm afraid my next step is to replace the gas pump and sending unit. It'll cost about $180 but I just don't have the time, the place nor patience to test things. Really getting tired of this stuff!!!!!!!
UPDATE>>>>>>>>>> Today, I went ahead and replaced the water thermo sensor.. Having the engine already "warmed up" couldn't really tell much other than the fact that the idle is somewhat irratic. It doesn't really stay at one speed and tends to go way up and then down. I'll know more later or tomorrow when I really try a cold start! If this doesn't work, I'm afraid my next step is to replace the gas pump and sending unit. It'll cost about $180 but I just don't have the time, the place nor patience to test things. Really getting tired of this stuff!!!!!!!
Sounds like at this point you are just throwing parts at it. Have you considered bringing it to a certified Mazda tech?
Sounds like at this point you are just throwing parts at it. Have you considered bringing it to a certified Mazda tech?
You see, that's part of the problem. Had I had the $$ available, I would've done that in the beginning. Since I don't and probably never will have, I've turned to this forum in the hopes of saving me time and $$$$. I'm not just throwing parts at it as you say; however, I am replacing possible culprits only after doing as much research as I can and make somewhat of an educated deduction ax I can. All things pointed to the water thermo sensor. I'll just keep going down the list. Make fun of me if you like. I thought part of the reason for these forums were for people to get their heads together and try to figure things out. Am I wrong?????? I can ill afford to to simply throw parts and hope! I'm happy for you if you're in such a good place in life.....me I'm not and will never be! That's why I'm here!!!!!!
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You see, that's part of the problem. Had I had the $$ available, I would've done that in the beginning. Since I don't and probably never will have, I've turned to this forum in the hopes of saving me time and $$$$. I'm not just throwing parts at it as you say; however, I am replacing possible culprits only after doing as much research as I can and make somewhat of an educated deduction ax I can. All things pointed to the water thermo sensor. I'll just keep going down the list. Make fun of me if you like. I thought part of the reason for these forums were for people to get their heads together and try to figure things out. Am I wrong?????? I can ill afford to to simply throw parts and hope! I'm happy for you if you're in such a good place in life.....me I'm not and will never be! That's why I'm here!!!!!!
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Dude, I am not making fun of you AT ALL. Just pointing out that in the long run, maybe purchasing all of those parts may end up being more expensive then just bringing it to a Mazda tech in the first place. And sure, forums like this are great for this stuff but if someone can't actually see and put their hands on an engine they are just guessing like you are. Technicians have advanced equipment that they can use to diagnose a problem that you might not have.

And don't be so sure that your financial situation will not get better, life can take turns and I hope it does for you.
An experience of mine:

My best truck is a 2004 Nissan Frontier, 143hp 4-cylinder (timing chain), 5-speed, 108K miles, pristine, air bags, ABS, my truck for the future. My '88 B2200 Cab Plus is my daily driver.

I'd been having two Check Engine Codes for a couple of years, and EGR Heater code, and a fuel level code (lie to warn if fuel got real low and one ignored the fuel gauge); truck ran the same/well, took it on some out of state vacations.

Then during a big backup on the Interstate, it would stall every time I stopped, whether in neutral or my foot pushed down on the clutch pedal, anywhere from 15 seconds to a minute after I sat motionless. The EGR heater needed a special deep 14mm socket with a slit to install (which I didn't have) and was expensive part. And I was not going to remove the gas tank to address the fuel level code. But main thing was the stalling, so asked my local ASE mechanic, and he told me his equipment didn't go deep enough for that stalling system with those codes. So I took it to a respected local ASE shop; they found one pin on the multi-pin connector for the computer to be bent, and installed a new oxygen sensor (for which I had no code). So $624 later the truck was fixed; that was 2 years ago, no error codes, and the truck hasn't stalled. I think it would've been impossible in a zillion years for me to fix that by myself; neither was obvious at all from the two Check Engine codes I had.

I wasn't thrilled about spending $624, but I'm thrilled to have the truck fixed !!!
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Sorry if my frustrations got the best of me! I've bigger issues now!!!!!!! After fighting to get the truck up and running, I took it out for a drive to the store. On the way, the clutch apparently went out!!!!! I couldn't shift whatsoever. After I got what I needed, I went to drive home......slowly!!!!!! I discovered I could shift up not easy but manageable. When I came to a stop sign, I had to turn the engine off, shift to 1st, then start and go. There was no clutch pedal at all!!!!!!! It was on the floor board and I had to lift it with the toe of my shoe. Upon finally getting home, I checked the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and it was about half empty. The slave cylinder looked older than me (74) all rusted up and deteriorated. I can't see a clutch just failing like that so I'm guessing the slave cylinder has failed. I was starting to have some issues in shifting but not really difficult. Since I can't leave my truck where I parked it, I'm going to replace the slave cylinder in the hopes that it's the lesser of the costs compared to replacing the clutch. ONE baby step forward and ten backwards.....or so it seems!
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There was no clutch pedal at all!!!!!!! It was on the floor board and I had to lift it with the toe of my shoe. .....Since I can't leave my truck where I parked it, I'm going to replace the slave cylinder in the hopes that it's the lesser of the costs compared to replacing the clutch.
I've had the clutch pedal stay on the floor on my 1988 B2200. It's the clutch hydraulics 99% of the time. I do advise replacing BOTH clutch master and clutch slave cylinder at the same time, that's what I do. If the clerk's name tag is Colin Kaepernick, better go to a different store....
I've had the clutch pedal stay on the floor on my 1988 B2200. It's the clutch hydraulics 99% of the time. I do advise replacing BOTH clutch master and clutch slave cylinder at the same time, that's what I do. If the clerk's name tag is Colin Kaepernick, better go to a different store....
Lolololol I love a good sense of humor.......go Seahawks!!!!!!!
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Lolololol I love a good sense of humor.......go Seahawks!!!!!!!
Am c
Lolololol I love a good sense of humor.......go Seahawks!!!!!!!
Am currently in process of replacing the Master clutch cylinder. All those videos make everything soooooo easy. So, I attaching pics here of the new and old cylinders together. No real signs of leakage but din't know why all the corrosion around the inside where the pushrod goes in. Also, the fluid was pretty dark and alot of "sludge" on the bottom of the fluid tank!
Lolololol I love a good sense of humor.......go Seahawks!!!!!!!
Well so far, everything that could go wrong.........has!!! Actually removing and replacing the master clutch cylinder was the easiest albeit not so easy!!! This 73 yr. old body doesn't bend and twist like it used to. Alot of corrosion around where the pushrod connects to the master cylinder but no leakage, at least that I could see. The videos you see make you think you've really got this and BAM. ...it wasn't even close!!!!! I'm posting a couple of pics if the master....a lot of sludge on the bottom.
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As for the slave clutch cylinder..........way different story!!!! First, I had to jack up the front right side so I could slide around underneath. Loosening the bolts was pretty easy speedy but oh that stinking rubber hose!!!!!!! Long story short and after calling my auto parts store to ensure they could get me what I need, I went ahead and cut the rubber hose! I suspect this was the real culprit as fluid was coming out from the push rod opening. I'm sending a before pic more to follow later.
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Hints:
1. Loosen the line fitting at the slave cylinder a little before unbolting it from the transmission housing - and thread in and mostly tighten before bolting the slave cylinder back on during re-assembly
2. Measure the depth of the recess of the new master cylinder, and if different from the existing one, adjust the pushrod accordingly.
3. Bench bleed new clutch masters and brake master cylinders.
4, Flush out all the old fluid when doing a hydraulic repair.
5. Use a flare wrench for initial loosening and final tightening of the lines.
6. Don't bend any metal line after it's loose; thread in the line fitting several turns by hand to avoid cross-threading, maybe even get this started before tightening the clutch MC mounting bolts.
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Thank you for that! I was planning on flushing out all the old fluid out first before connecting to the slave cylinder. Then hopefully it'll be a whole new system again. Will keep you updated! Thanks again!!!!
Thank you for that! I was planning on flushing out all the old fluid out first before connecting to the slave cylinder. Then hopefully it'll be a whole new system again. Will keep you updated! Thanks again!!!!
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UPDATE.. Finally got it all done!!!! Took longer as I had to return the new slave cylinder. Leaking behind the boot! Before even attempting to pump the clutch, I first vacuum bled until I was getting new fluid out. Then I bled the old fashioned way. This morning I went to vacj and checked andctgr clutch pedal was still up and had pressure. As I was underneath double checking all the connections, etc. I happened upon something a little shocking as I hadn't noticed it before. See attached photo to see if you see it. This one is a little over my head. Thoughrs???????
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Looks like an axle shaft boot. So here are the options I see based on my (limited) experiences over time.
1) Its just the boot. No damage to U-joints inside, get a split boot (use them a LOT on VW's), cut the old off, put the new on, forget about it. (This is easiest/cheapest scenario but a total Mickey Mouse fix...)
2) Pull your hub and replace the boot with a new OEM or equivalent, pack with grease, put on proper retaining clips, reassemble hub. Move one with your life. (Very good fix but only works if the axle, again, isn't damaged internally)
3) Buy a brand new or remanufactured axle shaft (new boots, U-joints, etc). Reassemble hub, move on with your life knowing its safe and functional for the long haul.

If you know all of this already, I don't mean to condescend. Just stating what decisions I would be faced with in the same scenario.

SIDEBAR... is that just dirt collected on the hydraulic line or is that actual damage to said line? I think its the brake line but not sure from the picture. IF its damage, you are going to want to replace that. If its just dirt, who care.... you're good!

Hope that helps?
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UPDATE: I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, rotor, distributer cap. That didn't make a difference and later replaced the fuel filter located on the firewall. That didn't seem to help other than it didn't take as long to get it running to a point where I could drive off. Now the Temperature outside has warmed up a little and coincidently, my truck now starts right up and I can drive it immediately. Just too weird forbnt to comprehend!!!!!!!
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