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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 92 b2200 extra cab base model. The carburetor is not right, someone else took it apart decided to clean it and couldn't get it back right. Broke some of the pieces and generally took it all out of adjustment.
I will buy a brand new one, not a problem. Which one do I get? I see several advertisement's for carburetors, they all have different numbers, they all have different looks and they all say they fit a b2200. If anyone could help, please get back quickly, I only have a week and a half to have this ready. I just need to know what model number everything will fit with, any modifications. I'm not a mechanic, a friend of mine is, sort of and is helping me. In other words I'm watching him.
 

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1992 Mazda, B2200 ext cab
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Your best bet is to buy a weber 32/36 red line.
Then you can toss out all the vacuum stuff.
I'm sure there are others that have the best place to buy it and what to avoid.
Bobmo
 

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Yes.....as Bobmo has said, do yourself a favor and replace the factory carb with a RedLine Weber 32/36 electric choke carb.
If you have emission testing in your area, then you may need to buy a rebuilt factory carb.
The trouble with the factory carb is that it is a "feedback" carb and it requires input from the many other sensors and devices throughout the engine bay......if a previous Owner has messed with and or broken any of those sensors/devices......then your task of replacing the carb with a factory carb, could be daunting! It only takes one sensor or device to throw the factory carb into "limp mode" or just cause the carb to not work properly.
I have tried many times to repair or rebuild the factory carbs......with about a 50% success rate......and I am a very competent "home" mechanic. I have even given up on a few (years ago now) and ordered a rebuilt factory carb from Carbs Unlimited, Inc......one ran good, the other not so good......
Now-a-days, I always buy a Weber when I have to rebuild a B-series engine that was still using a factory carb. The Weber (RedLine Weber's are the best) is cheaper, and totally adjustable/tunable......unlike the factory carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes.....as Bobmo has said, do yourself a favor and replace the factory carb with a RedLine Weber 32/36 electric choke carb.
If you have emission testing in your area, then you may need to buy a rebuilt factory carb.
The trouble with the factory carb is that it is a "feedback" carb and it requires input from the many other sensors and devices throughout the engine bay......if a previous Owner has messed with and or broken any of those sensors/devices......then your task of replacing the carb with a factory carb, could be daunting! It only takes one sensor or device to throw the factory carb into "limp mode" or just cause the carb to not work properly.
I have tried many times to repair or rebuild the factory carbs......with about a 50% success rate......and I am a very competent "home" mechanic. I have even given up on a few (years ago now) and ordered a rebuilt factory carb from Carbs Unlimited, Inc......one ran good, the other not so good......
Now-a-days, I always buy a Weber when I have to rebuild a B-series engine that was still using a factory carb. The Weber (RedLine Weber's are the best) is cheaper, and totally adjustable/tunable......unlike the factory carb.
Thanks for the replies, I don't know what the emissions standards are, I live in Louisiana. I'd love to just delete everything and go with the Weber not sure if that's possible. I don't think the truck was messed with much. It's got 72,000 original miles, you know, old lady, Church, grocery store... I just know I have to have this thing running in a week and a half, I got some digging to do today. Thanks again for the help.
 

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Genuine Redline Weber 32/36 DGEV kit. You'll still likely to need to do some modifications, like a stronger return spring, sanding the adapter plates perfectly flat on a sheet of glass, etc.
Three things typically come to mind with a Weber 32/36 DGEV installation:
1. Was a thin coat of Permatex Aviation or similar used on all the gaskets for the adapters and bottom of carb? Were the mounting screws and bolts all torqued correctly? Did you use blue Loctite on their threads?

2. Did you plug the electric choke of the Weber into the rear of the alternator? If the bi-metallic spring doesn't get heat from the choke heater to open up the choke butterfly, the fuel:air mixture will be richer than it should be for a warm engine.

3. Are all the vacuum ports capped off with GOOD quality caps (or pieces of vacuum tubing and golf tees) ?

Making Weber adapters flat
"Lay out a sheet of 80 grit emery paper on a piece of glass the workbench, taped all 4 sides of it down, and ran both sides of both adapter plates back and forth on the sand paper until they were actually FLAT. From Redline, they were not even close to flat, though they seemed like they were. After taking off all of the high spots on both, I installed them one final time - and never had another problem with them again. No more vacuum leaks. No more nuts that wanted to loosen up. No more tedious re-seal jobs." And see attached file.

My own Weber 32/36 DGEV idle jets are 52 and 45.

Other resources

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does anyone know where to get the adapter plates from? Order the carb off Amazon,a 32/36 and it didn't come with adapter plates. Can't contact seller in any way.....
Got only a few days left to get this thing running and will overnight part if I can find it.
Any help would be great,does anybody have one that's used or anything? Contact me right away if possible...
[email protected]
Thanks
 

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Does anyone know where to get the adapter plates from? Order the carb off Amazon,a 32/36 and it didn't come with adapter plates. Can't contact seller in any way.....
Got only a few days left to get this thing running and will overnight part if I can find it.
Any help would be great,does anybody have one that's used or anything? Contact me right away if possible...
crea[email protected]
Thanks
Redlineweber.com shows adapter plates available separately, you can contact them. However, I would return the Amazon one and get a genuine Redline Weber K675 kit. WEBER Carburetors distributed by Redline : Mazda
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, too late I bought a set of plates today, coming from Canada hope I didn't get burned, when I receive the parts and if everything is okay, I'll link the guys site in here.
Seems nice, very helpful. Can't remember the name of the place, I have to look at computer at work Monday.
I'm just stressing over getting this build done, I have right at a week to finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Redlineweber.com shows adapter plates available separately, you can contact them. However, I would return the Amazon one and get a genuine Redline Weber K675 kit. WEBER Carburetors distributed by Redline : Mazda
Thanks, I thought about going that way, but I literally have to have this vehicle going no later than a week from today. I overnighted the plates and I hope it don't take two three weeks to come in. Everywhere I looked, the shipping dates were November 29th to December 15th, all in that neighborhood...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where are you located Mikey007? I'm in Gainesville FL, and I do have a few Mazda B-Truck parts......
I'm in Lousyanna , I ordered the plates and they will be here Monday. I think I have enough time to finish. I may be looking for some more parts in the future but the rest of this month and next month are hectic for me, first of the year I may really put some money into this little project. The little truck looks great, I don't care for red but that's what it was. The paint job compounded out perfect except for one area where the guy buffing it out wasn't as experienced as I thought and didn't realize he went through to the primer in about six little spots the size of a quarter. Other than that the little truck looked almost new.
 

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You'll still likely to need to do some modifications, like a stronger return spring, sanding the adapter plates perfectly flat on a sheet of glass, etc.

Several things typically come to mind with a Weber 32/36 DGEV installation:
1. Was a thin coat of Permatex Aviation or similar used on all the gaskets for the adapters and bottom of carb? Were the mounting screws and bolts all torqued correctly? Did you use blue Loctite on their threads?

2. Did you plug the electric choke of the Weber into the rear of the alternator? If the bi-metallic spring doesn't get heat from the choke heater to open up the choke butterfly, the fuel:air mixture will be richer than it should be for a warm engine.

3. Are all the vacuum ports capped off with GOOD quality caps (or pieces of vacuum tubing and golf tees) ?

4. Did you get a stronger throttle return spring?

Making Weber adapters flat

"Lay out a sheet of 80 grit emery paper on a piece of glass the workbench, taped all 4 sides of it down, and ran both sides of both adapter plates back and forth on the sand paper until they were actually FLAT. From Redline, they were not even close to flat, though they seemed like they were. After taking off all of the high spots on both, I installed them one final time - and never had another problem with them again. No more vacuum leaks. No more nuts that wanted to loosen up. No more tedious re-seal jobs." And see attached file:
 

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You use the factory throttle linkage.

Now, the bracket to hold the linkage is.......in the KIT. So, if you didn't get a Weber & kit......you'll need to make one to use temporarily so you can get up and running, then install a Weber one later if you like.

Bracket looks like this......

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I will typically "open" the smaller hole in the bracket where the cable goes, with a multi-stepped drill bit to around 5/8" so I can install the rubber isolation washer in that opened up hole, and have the nut & washer on each side of the rubber washer......just like the factory had it setup on a stock carb throttle bracket.


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In these pics, I was setting it all up and did not have the rubber washer, and larger hole drilled yet......I will see if I can find a pic where it was done later.
 
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