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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
<div align="left">Firstly let me get the details of the trucks condition out of the way. It was a free truck that the previous owner let sit for 5 years. It's got 72800 miles on it and so far I've had to have the gas tank cleaned out, rebuilt the carb, and replaced the plugs/wires/cap and rotor.

When trying to run it the thing would idle roughly for a short time and die. I checked for leaks and found some problems in the emissions. The EGR Solenoid Valve was leaking like a seive and a vacuum line T connector was broken(the hose came off the evap canister). When I looked into replacing the valve I was told by the local Mazda dealership the part is no longer available. No Problem I thought because the truck is old enough for a safety only inspection, so I plugged up the vacuum hoses going to those emissions parts.

Now, as it stands the best I can get the truck to idle is by adjusting the (I think it's called) tempurature idle adjust. But it still dies when revved and I let off the gas.

Ideally what I would love to find are diagrams/pictures of labelled parts of everything that connects to the carb. That way I can give better descriptions of what I have found/done/cursed at.

Thank you in advance for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
<div align="left">Well, after some tinkering and experimenting I have come across something interesting. If I block barrel 1 a bit with my finger the truck will idle rather well. I'm looking for vacuum leaks and coming up with nothing. I'm inclined to believe if I adjust the electric choke a bit this will fix the problem, but I can't find any details on how to do this.
 

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I think the problem might be that you have some emissions pluged, go to junk yards and try online junk yards to necessary parts. And if you don't know the name of the part, take a picture of and use that for online junk yards. as for vac diagram try checking out my car domain page and looking page three I think.use brake cleaner spray for checking for vac leaks, crab spray can mess up paint, and some plastics.
I have found that the emission part for these truck have to be connected right for any thing to work good, andcheck your linkages are right too, I may have pics of them if you need them.MY CAR DOMAIN SITE.
<div align="left">Well, after some tinkering and experimenting I have come across something interesting. If I block barrel 1 a bit with my finger the truck will idle rather well. I'm looking for vacuum leaks and coming up with nothing. I'm inclined to believe if I adjust the electric choke a bit this will fix the problem, but I can't find any details on how to do this.
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<div align="left">Firstly let me get the details of the trucks condition out of the way. It was a free truck that the previous owner let sit for 5 years. It's got 72800 miles on it and so far I've had to have the gas tank cleaned out, rebuilt the carb, and replaced the plugs/wires/cap and rotor.

When trying to run it the thing would idle roughly for a short time and die. I checked for leaks and found some problems in the emissions. The EGR Solenoid Valve was leaking like a seive and a vacuum line T connector was broken(the hose came off the evap canister). When I looked into replacing the valve I was told by the local Mazda dealership the part is no longer available. No Problem I thought because the truck is old enough for a safety only inspection, so I plugged up the vacuum hoses going to those emissions parts.

Now, as it stands the best I can get the truck to idle is by adjusting the (I think it's called) tempurature idle adjust. But it still dies when revved and I let off the gas.

Ideally what I would love to find are diagrams/pictures of labelled parts of everything that connects to the carb. That way I can give better descriptions of what I have found/done/cursed at.

Thank you in advance for your help.
Good stuff man , I may need your help soon ! Are you still here ?
 
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