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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I'd start my own thread for this, as it will be a few weeks until I can test and track down the issue...I do NOT throw parts at a problem and "hope" something fixes it !!!

I seem to have intermittent on my 1988 B22000 (235K miles); failure to crank the engine using the key. I hope to be able to do some troubleshooting this afternoon, but may have to wait until next week when the engine is "cold".

I am ruling out the clutch contact switch as I can hold this down continually until turning the key several times gets the starter to spin. Battery is less than 2 months old, as I got a free replacement while I still had a couple of months left on the Walmart 3-year free replacement warranty. My starter is the factory one still, my ignition switch electricals were replaced about 1995.

So I need to measure voltage at the starter small terminal, to see if the electrical part of the ignition switch is making continuity to the starter. If that's bad, I might try to clean the switch as Earl detailed above in this thread. Or maybe I'll wire-in a separate momentary toggle switch as a "Start" switch - but does anyone know how many amps such switch would need to be???

Update: this afternoon I couldn't get it to "not crank". So I just cleaned the terminal and terminal connector at the starter for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
also remembered that I still have my malfunctioning original starter switch, maybe I can refurbish that, or at least practice on that.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK, today I went down to where the B2200 "lives". I checked the small wire to the starter while turning the key, that wire delivered 12 volts every time. I cleaned the large terminal on the starter too, I had cleaned the small one last week. Battery (new free replacement last month) measured 12.2 volts at rest, and 11.8 volts while trying to start when the engine wouldn't crank. Specifications for a good battery are 9.6 volts or more measured at the battery WHILE trying to crank the engine, so I'm significantly above that.

Have battery on the charger overnight....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The B2200 started every time today; early I started and drove it to softball. After that, it started fine, also at Lowes, Home Depot, and twice at the gas station.

I thought once home I'd clean up the ground wire connections too. I found the negative terminal at the battery to be loose (factory ground cable), so I spread the soft lead connection and filed it down some, and now it's tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update: this morning on my 1998 Frontier, wouldn't crank either. First thing I checked was battery voltage while trying to crank, was unchanged. Then I noticed a broken plastic push-stopper on the floor, had broken so the clutch safety switch would not close and complete the circuit to the starter. So I fixed by inserting a short 3/8" hex head screw, lock washer, and nut to secure it, and the hex head actuates the switch when the pedal is pushed down.

So I'm wondering now if I overlooked something similar on our trucks' starting circuit??? Right now I'm 100 miles away from my B2200 so can't run out to take a look, and has anyone had issues with the similar set-up on our trucks? I see two pieces, both labeled 43-029 which correspond to Mazda parts B00143029 and G03043029 which must be different somehow. My 1988 B2200 does not have cruise control so only one switch on its clutch pedal.
10614

10615
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: I was with the B2200 yesterday, and it cranked every time, so I couldn't do any further troubleshooting; possibly my cleaning of all the grounding wire junctions last week solved the intermittent thing, time will tell.

However, I did get a good look at the clutch safety switch on this. Unlike my Frontiers, which use a switch that gets "closed" by its plunger when the clutch pedal is pushed down all the way, the B2200 has a switch that is pressed in by the rubber "pad" in the hole in the clutch pedal when the clutch pedal is "up" and then closes when the pedal is depressed so the starter can get power. So if that rubber pad fails/breaks, then the engine will crank even if the clutch pedal is not depressed.

And the brake pedal switch has similar rubber pad for the brake lights, which closes when the pedal is pushed down and allows the plunger on the switch to release out and close the brake light circuit. If this pad breaks/fails, then the brake lights will be on full time (like on my Frontiers).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Traveled down 100 miles today, my B2200 cranked the engine on 2nd attempt, so I wasn't even able to try the "tap the starter with a hammer" test.

However, I was able to find the original electric switch from my '88 B2200, which I replaced about 1995 because it lost continuity in the "Run" position, so I hope to see if I can get that apart and clean it using instructions from I can push start but not use the starter

But in the same 1-gallon storage bag I ALSO found two used electrical switches from the parts yard which I've never even tested. So most likely if it turns out to be a bad electrical switch, I shouldn't need to buy one.

In the meantime, I'm carrying a small hammer in the truck just in case I need to try the "tap" test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did get my "original" switch apart, broke the housing a little though. My contacts were pretty much like the ones shown here

So I cleaned those up, put it back together held by a clamp, and used Duco cement to try to hold it back together. I'll check this and the two used ones with my ohmmeter next week.
The white wire is the power feed to the switch.

In the on or run position: the BW (black/white), BY (black/yellow), and L (blue) should all have 12V+ power.

In the start position: the BY (black/yellow), BR (black/red) should all have 12V+ power.

Blue is accessories, BY is ignition1, BW is ignition2, BR is for starter.

Ignition switch UB3966151
 
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