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Here's the cover. Pull the old gasket off.


Now you need to clean the gasket surfaces on the cover. This sucks. It took me nearly two hours to clean these **** covers. It's a stupid design. The grove in the cover isn't necessary. Lots of other makers use a flat cover, which doesn't leak any easier than these lousy grooved ones. I used brake cleaner, scotch brite pad, a small flat screwdriver, and a small wire brush. Yes, I know, you're not supposed to use a wire brush, because the scratched surface will leak. Mine are not leaking 2 weeks later. Use your own discretion on the wire brush. The experts say it's bad.


Here's a close-up. That black stuff is old sealant. It MUST come off. All the oil too. Don't skimp here, take your time. It's the reason you're doing all this work. Get it all off.


Here's a close-up of a clean gasket surface.


Make sure to get the spark plug holes!


Here is the valve cover all cleaned up.


Before you proceed with putting it back together, you should clean up the area where the intake manifold mounts to the head. Lots of crap gets stuck down in there, and it's easier to clean it up befoer you put the valve cover back on. Put some towel in the intake holes, and use brake cleaner and a small flat screwdriver to tidy it up.


Now get ready to put the valve cover back on. You need to get everything ready before you start because you have limited time until the sealer sets up. Once you start, you can't stop until it's torqued. First, dry fit the gasket in the valve cover groove (red arrow). You want to make sure it fits well BEFORE you get sealer everywhere. You need the inch-pound/newton-meter torque wrench (blue arrow) with a 10mm socket. You need the sealant (pink arrow). And you need all the valve cover bolts (cleaned) stuck in the new valve cover washers (orange arrow) you got with the gasket.

Now it's time for sealer. I didn’t get a picture of the sealant on the parts because I was in a hurry. You should cut the top of the sealer tube to about a 1/4 inch hole. Run a bead of sealant around the entire groove in the valve cover, including the spark plug holes as shown on the manual page below. Get it all! No gaps! On the head itself, you need to put sealant at the points where cam seal caps meet the head, and on the half moon rubber pieces in the rear of the head as shown in the manual page. I chose to run a bead of sealer all the way around the gasket surface. Press your new gasket into the sealer in the groove of the valve cover. Push it in well. It's messy, deal with it! You want to make sure the gasket is seated in the groove as well as you can, so it stays put when you put the cover back on the head. Put the cover on the head. Get all 11 bolts started. Hand tighten them all. Using your torque wrench, tighten the bolts a little bit at a time, following the pattern shown below. Make sure to do them in order so you don't warp the cover. I tightened them to about 3NM, then about 6NM, then around again to about 9.8NM. Then check the center bolts again.


Now start putting the front side back together. I reused the metal intake manifold gasket, but added a film of silicone on both sides of the gasket. Follow the pattern below for the intake manifold bolt torque. Torque them in order to about 19NM, then again to 25NM. Put stuff back together in the opposite order you took them apart. Be careful with the vacuum lines going thru the intake manifold so you don't crimp or pinch them. Careful with those fuel line banjo bolt copper washers!


Onward to the rear. It's basically the same as the front, but with a couple extra steps, and a whole bunch of crap in the way when you're working. All the intake and valve cover bolts are the same. Start by pulling the rear intercooler output pipe 12mm nuts (red arrows). Pull the pipe put of the way. Remove the two 4mm allen bolts (blue arrows) on the fuel regulator. Pull the two vacuum hoses (orange arrows) next to the regulator. This takes some patience, as there is very little room to work. Remove the big breather hose (pink arrow).


On the EGR, loosen the big nut (pink arrow). Remove the vacuum hose (orange arrow). Unclip the electrical connectors (blue arrows). Undo the coolant lines (turquoise arrows). Remove the 2 12mm bolts (red arrows). Remove the EGR. You will have to jiggle it and fiddle around to get it off the pipe. Remove the banjo bolt on the fuel rail (watch the washers!). Remove the intake manifold bolts like you did on the front. Pull the intake manifold off the studs, and lay it on the supercharger. (Not pictured, but like the front) Remove the coils.


Remove the 2 10mm nuts (red arrows) holding all the crap on the rear valve cover. In this pic I already took them off. Use a twist tie or some wire (blue arrow) to tie all the crap back to the firewall so you have room to work. Be careful with the vacuum hoses. Remove the 10mm bolt (orange arrow) on the breather tube. I already pulled the hose off the tube (not pictured). Remove the 11 10mm bolts from the top of the valve cover. The ones nearest the firewall need to be done by feel. A combination of the right length extensions and sockets will make it easier (not pictured, but like the front). Remove the 2 10mm bolts in the front of the valve cover going thru the timing belt cover like the front. The one bolt farthest to the rear is really a bitch to get. It's really close to the AC, and you can't get a hand in there. I used a 9" extension and a universal joint on a short 10mm socket. A very long gear wrench would have been better. Good luck. My Millenia will continue life without that bolt being replaced.


Remove the valve cover. You need to wiggle it out of all the crap. Here it is, gone. It's tighter than it looks! Clean it up and reinstall just like the front.


And, reinstall everything in reverse order! Easy peasy.

I may have missed describing a hose, connector, bolt, or something else. Sorry about that, I got in a bit of a hurry near the end. You'll figure it out!

Regards,

Keen
 

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i posted earlier about this. and BEFORE any of you get too far, you must FIRST try to loosen the allen bolts on each intake. the first car i did, it was easy. everything went as planned. however, on car #2, and i have no idea why, because both cars are texas cars, and have about the same mileage. i could not break free the allen bolts. one did come out, but the others are frozen on. they are only torqued at 18 ft/lbs. when i finally gave up and put the one bolt back, the threads stripped out. i was using an in/lb torque wrench. so now i have an exposed bolt hole, waiting for some time in the future when i can time sert it, if ever. also, if you are going to keep the car, now would be a good time to also change out all the hoses, including breather, and redo the vacuum lines. i also have allen head sockets, and the common sizes i have extended ones, so you dont have to pull the fuel rails to get at the allen bolts. you can leave the fuel rails attached to the intakes. this will save you buying new injector seals, them suckers are pricey. i also bought all new gaskets, not cheap. but if one gasket leaks, you will be back in there
 

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Nice! Someone finally did a step-by-step guide with pictures! This will be very useful to others. There are a few threads with general guidelines or bits and pieces of information, but this is a first complete guide with pictures.

When I did mine years ago, my digital camera broke, and it was before the days of good camera phones. So I never made a guide.

Please don't ever get rid of you photobucket account. Because then we will be left with a thread full of dead links and no pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Keninn, I read about the allen bolt problem somewhere else too. I just forgot to mention how I handled the bolts. I soaked them with some PB blaster ahead of time. Also, because that area gets a buch of dirt in it, you need to clean the allen bolt recess as much as possible. Then I used a hammer on the end of the allen socket/extension to make sure the allen head was completely seated in the bolt before turning the ratchet on it. Mine came out fine.

Mazda-fla, some other forums let you upload the pictures directly to the forum, so they always stay on the board. Is there any way to do that here?
 

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well first, welcome to the forums.

Second, that was an excellent guide. Someone should sticky these threads and move them to the technical guide section so they dont get lost in the ether.

your help is very much appreciated by the community I am sure!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the welcome! I've used a lot of other car forums over the years, but this was the first time I was doing a fairly big job that had no DIY, so I thought I'd give back.

I tried to put them in the tech section, but the forum wouldn't let me post there. Maybe the moderator can move them.
 

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ive been wanting to do mine, theres just soo much stuff its intimidating but now that my vac. t's are shot dont have a choice, this is going to make it soo much easier!!!
 

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Thanks for the welcome! I've used a lot of other car forums over the years, but this was the first time I was doing a fairly big job that had no DIY, so I thought I'd give back.

I tried to put them in the tech section, but the forum wouldn't let me post there. Maybe the moderator can move them.
Thank You 4 this insight I been working on my 02 Milli S Project for over a year now all the work done by myself except for a few things I needed n extra set of hands on. The back valve gasket cover had me stumped I didn't know there was a 2nd bolt behind the intercooler, I also got my Milli S in very very bad condition. Motor required all seals replaced, new timing belt kit, new radiator, new hoses, rebuilt transmission & a bunch of other mechanical pieces that were pretty cheap when you shop around. What made me work on it myself was the price quotes. Since I can read blueprints and schematics I decided to do it myself. I refused to sell or junk the car bought it back from the dead. P.S. the only thing that was in GD condition was the interior, Bose sound system, after market Pioneer touch screen. Paint was 4 out 10 due to previous owner vandalism and front spoiler bumper lip torn. Custom exhaust will be fabricated and put on by me once I'm there I'll put sum pics up. Thanks Again
 
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