Print the vac diagram in color and give it to your mechanic. He probably doesnt have the diagram and he can only guess the routing.

I wouldnt drive the car like that as well.

 

i printed it out, and im gonna show it to him. i just hope he doesnt try to make som bs excuse cuz i brought my own parts and he said theres no warranty, but that means if the gasket or plugs go bad right? he should still be responsible for putting the car back together properly, i mean i paid 700 just for the labor. its like paying a doctor heartsurgery and he fixes it but puts your intestines backwards or something.

 

he screwed up the ABV circuit. Lime Green in the diagram picture. the one with the 2 check valves in it.

that is the line that causes the limp mode

 

do u mean the abv actuator? i see some yellow lines and two check valves with lime green in them... is this an easy fix? can i do it myself just by taking the miller.cover off?

 

I checked those lime green check valves, and there were no loose connections. Im losing my mind here as the problem is still there with the TCS/TCS Off light coming on everytime I go over 50mph so I cant really drive on the freeway, and my mechanic comes back next week Friday. Are there any other vacuum lines I should check? I dont know how to take apart anything except the miller cycle cover, and I am just checking the vacuum lines from what I can see.

here is the diagram I am looking at: http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=771

 

I checked those lime green check valves, and there were no loose connections. Im losing my mind here as the problem is still there with the TCS/TCS Off light coming on everytime I go over 50mph so I cant really drive on the freeway, and my mechanic comes back next week Friday. Are there any other vacuum lines I should check? I dont know how to take apart anything except the miller cycle cover, and I am just checking the vacuum lines from what I can see.

here is the diagram I am looking at: http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=771

by trying to fix this yourself, you are giving your "mechanic" a way out. there are only 2 ways to go here. either leave it be, and let your "mechanic" fix it, and be prepared for him to say it is something else, and will cost $xxxxxx to fix, or try it yourself, which really sounds like it is beyond your expertise. if you go the "mechanic" route, make sure you do NOT tell him you did anything. you did NOT touch the motor. this car is tricky. there are very few who have experience with repairs. we have all experienced this, and we have all learned a lot. while there are many more things that can go wrong with these cars, some of them are quite common and repetitive. shops hate to admit they effed up, and will try to back out of fixing it. that is why you should look for a shop that will stand behind it's work. i sold parts in the independent shop industry for a long time, and a well established reputable shop will fix their error no charge. a small, wannabe will not. good shops get work that was messed up by other shops all the time. then people think that all shops just rip them off. bottom line here is that you need to get rid of the car. if you cannot do repairs yourself, find a more common car and get that. this car can eat your lunch.

 

My mechanics finally back so I brought the car into the shop today. He did some visual inspections, checked, the solenoids, but still the problem exists. My cars gonna be there over the weekend and he will begin removing everything on Monday to get inside and see if there are any broken hoses, or tees. Does anyone have any advice on what else could be the problem. It is a code 1540 only.

 

i had the same work done on my '00 Mill in dec. my CEL lit up recently after having same issues with the tcs light going of at certain speeds, or when the car heats up to a certain temp (i think especially when using AC). the pulled code read P1540 only as well. the similarities between our car issues might seem to be more than coincidental.
anyway, i will keep a look out for your updates. similar symptoms might yield similar solution.
wish i could provide some more useful info but i am yet to have the car looked at. debating on whether i need to take back to the dealership since there is a chance this issue is related to their previous work or just go to a local shop which absolves the dealership. it has been over 6 months, so d'ship certainly has window.
we can compare notes later on at least.

 

ok so my mechanic took the car apart and carefully inspected the hose routing 3 times and put it back together, but the problem is still there. he recommends me to take the car to the dealer cuz there are no leaks either. he said he checked the solenoids, but only when the car was cold. i told him about what i read on the forums, that it is recommended to check it when it is hot, but he doesnt believe me. my last option now is to replace the vacuum and vent solenoids which i am going to order on tasca mazda website, and my mechanic said he is will install them for free. its wierd cuz i only got p1540 code, but usually when those solenoids go out the p1526 should come out. anyways this is my last option, and if it doesnt work, im trading the car in. please advise if anyone has any useful information...

 

Having same problem

Just bought a 98 s 6 months ago with a bad motor... Finished the swap last week and now the tcs/tcs off light are on and the button that should turn the tcs off light off seems to be useless. The car runs great but now I'm getting worried the transmission is no good after the insane headache of swapping that motor out. Any ideas would be appreciated!

 

there are 2 one way check valves on the ABV circuit I mentioned. if they are reversed it will also cause this problem.

again, It is definitely on that lime green line. so if the hose is in tact and the solenoids are good, then check all the other things that those lines plug into. perhaps the lines are not put into the ABV valve itself properly.

Look more carefully. you will find it. it would be a shame to sell the car for 5 ft worth of rubber hose

 

there are 2 one way check valves on the ABV circuit I mentioned. if they are reversed it will also cause this problem.

again, It is definitely on that lime green line. so if the hose is in tact and the solenoids are good, then check all the other things that those lines plug into. perhaps the lines are not put into the ABV valve itself properly.

Look more carefully. you will find it. it would be a shame to sell the car for 5 ft worth of rubber hose

Yep i checked those valves and had my mechanic check them too. The arrows were pointing in the right direction from what I saw. My last resort is replacing the two valves (vacuum and vent). I am getting them today from tasca parts. I should have them installed by tomorrow. I hope this will do the fix...

 

finally took the car in to a guy who seems to know what he is doing. he said all hose connections are fine. ohm'd the solenoids. all working fine on cold, but on hot seem like valve solenoid ohm reading gets progressively higher as it heats up, which would cause it to stick. He %90 sure the culprit is the valve solenoid. mazda recommends changing all 4 solenoids but OEMs come in 4 sets or 2 set ($50 difference) all in all looking at $450 for repairs if i replace all 4. anyway, dont know if your solenoids were tested cold or hot? but this is where i stand

 

I actually forgot to tell him to check when it was hot, but shouldnt a mechanic know these kind of things. When I told him the reading is different when hot, he had this look like he didn't believe me, but I told him I read it on the online forums. Anyway, I am getting the vacuum and vent solenoids soon, but not the two other solenoids like you. I think you are getting ripped off on your quotes for $450 though. I bought both solenoids (vacuum and vent) for a little over $100 from tasca parts online and you can by the seperately too. My mechanics gonna install them free cuz it's such an easy replacement.

I think the solenoids overheat when I hit over 50mph, and that could explain why it only happens then, and it makes the car go into limp mode. Anyways I'll find out by tomorrow if I get the parts delivered today by ups. I'm praying this will do the fix. I'm not sure why mazda recommends replacing all four solenoids though, I have been reading all the forums and most people only replaced the two valves.

 

can your mech move to NY? but yeah, probably i am paying too much. this shop charges 85$ an hr. with OEMs, the price is also higher and i am replacing all 4. as long as she runs good. i figure he plugs in 2 hrs worth of work altogether, hose inspection, testing, etc. plus the 4 solenoids with tax added on. gotta have the car back on the road ASAP. did it sting to know how much you are paying? yes. but in the greater scheme of things, a couple hundred don't mean as much. not because i am rich, far from it. but because at the end, it all evens out. thanks

 

Wtf ftw!!!!

Ok so my mechanic installed both the new vacuum and vent solenoids, and bam on the freeway, the stupid tcs/tcs off light hits again. WTF!!!!!!!!!!!

Now what should I do????

Im thinking of replacing all the vacuum lines now. Please any suggestions....

 

Ok so my mechanic installed both the new vacuum and vent solenoids, and bam on the freeway, the stupid tcs/tcs off light hits again. WTF!!!!!!!!!!!

Now what should I do????

Im thinking of replacing all the vacuum lines now. Please any suggestions....

Quick question for you. When your TCS/TCS off lights illuminate do you get a subsuquent severe power loss (unable above 2500RPM/ ~ 40-45MPHmax) or AKA "limp mode". Or when the lights come on is it just a nuissance effect with no appreciable loss of performance.

The reason I ask (and I have experienced both conditions w/ this MC engine) is that I just finished replacing almost all my vac lines with silicone hose and some new brass tees. Unfortunately, the car which had been running super smooth before the project is now giving me regular TCS/TCS off lights. On the plus side it is not going into "limp mode" and it performs quite nicely just is light up like a Xmas tree on most drives.

Still trying to troubleshoot it....I have not changed out either of the ABV solenoid valves as of yet. I think when I get around to it I will ohm those two solenoids to see if they might be the culprit.

never a dull moment with our cars....

 

my mechanic now says that even to smoke the car it will take a lot of work because he has to take the supercharger out. Im exhausted from this car already, and decided to just trade it in, i feel sorry for the next owner of this problem vehicle...

 

Wow, is this the end to this thread??? I have a 2002 Millenia S that has run great since I purchased it. I had the valve cover gasket replaced and now all of these same exact problems! I just purchased a new car and gave this Millenia to my daughter. I hate to think of having to get rid of this car and buying another car since I just purchased a new car.

 

I'm currently experiencing the same problem in my 94 KJ Eunos.

Did anyone figure out what the problem is? I understand Vac leak is a common cause, but i replaced all the suspect lines and still no fix.

I'll have a look at the solenoids again tomorrow.

 

Please help!!!!




I am also having the same problem on my 1995 Millenia S 2.3L SC. I have replaced all vacuum lines, Installed Brass Tee's, Brand New "ABV Vent and Vacuum" solenoids from Tasca parts!/ Intake Gaskets/ Intake Boot.....Rechecked all of my lines many times, made sure all check valves ( green and white ones, and the two vacuum hoses from the vacuum pump with arrows pointing towards the engine are in their correct "Direction of air flow". And I still Keep getting the dreadful P1540 from ****!!

I am stuck! Poor Milly. Please help!

I thought that I would give this thread some CPR! It's just sad that this can not be remedied.

Thanks in advance for ANY insight on this common issue. (P1540 code ALONE issue)

Luroc

 

check the vacuum line to the vacuum pump , i suspect its cracked
The vacuum line from the vacuum pump is covered by foam insulation , you will need to remove to check , its located around the timing and serpentine belt area , i suspect its your problem
Realise that these engines do not create vacuum , the vacuum is produced by a separate pump located low on the serpentine belt area
Hope this makes sense

 

***Update #2 ***


*Well, my 1995 Milly 'S' just PASSED CT Emissions! She also now has Classic Plates!


Is there a way for us Milly "S owners to measure Emission Testing Results with different year Milly's, .....?


Any information on this would be great. Just curious on the health reporting/ efficiency for my catalytic converters....


Thanks


Luroc