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Discussion Starter #301
Put washer bottle back in today and ran all new lines are they were stuffed. Also one heat range hotter plugs in it while im messing around so its not so keen to foul them.

Hooked the wideband up too and its idling at 8.2:1 AFR's so i figure the oxygen sensor its stuffed so ill need to shop around for a new one. Should idle at 14.7:1.
 

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Discussion Starter #302 (Edited)
The VL commodore radiator arrived today. Quality very poor as expected (ebay), but it will do providing it doesn't leak. After chopping all the unwanted stuff off, its actually a really good fit in the engine bay. The only problem for me is the filler point is closer to the cooler piping then expected - so close i need to chop it off and have it welded on closer. Here's some pics of a trial fit, just not mounted yet.

Radiator in


Unfortunately i'm left with exactly the same space between the radiator and pulley's because this radiator is a twin core 42mm, wheres factory was only 25mm. You can see the warp in the dodgy ebay radiator.


Fouling with the intercooler piping. Will do for rego, but not good enough to stay like it.


Inlet/Outlet on the same side, much easier for plumbing up on this motor as i used to have a crossover pipe down the bottom. The added benefit is the radiator is twin flow, which should cool a little better. Also smaller then the 929 one so i hope i can still get a decent thermo on it.


Engine bay looks a little better with a bit more alloy added. Half the core is actually hidden by the radiator support.


Now to find a way to mount it. Mounting the bottom should be fairly easy as it cant be seen, but finding something that looks neat up the top will be the difficult part.
 

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Discussion Starter #303
Radiator mounted, just used some small RHS bridged across, plenty strong enough. Now i just have to make a little positioning bracket for the bottom.


Also fitted a CD player i had in the shed. Its conveniently smaller then the original so i will be putting a boost and oil pressure gauge above it.
 

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Discussion Starter #306
Well Spal thermo fan, new tridon thermo fan switch and Speco boost gauge have all arrived. Have also bought new radiator hoses, a new battery and air filter. Started tidying up some of the wiring while waiting for the parts. Mostly the stuff i just did quickly so i could drive it between houses when i moved.

Now to get it all happening and on the car...
 

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Discussion Starter #307
Radiator is all mounted now. Just used a brace across the bottom to position it as the top holds most of the weight.



New radiator hoses made. Cut a section out of one for the top, and joined two together for the bottom.



16" Spal mounted. Used two brackets for the top, and pin type mounts for the bottom. Only concern is Spal recommend 1/4 inch space off the radiator for acceleration and deceleration.



The measured amount of room from thermo to pullies



While i had the welder out i also made a stay for the air filter. The weight of it is mostly held by the silicon joiner anyway.



And have started making a mounting plate for the gauges about the stereo. Much better then a pillar mount.

 

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looking good dude!
 

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Discussion Starter #309
This thing goes again now. Thermo fan wired up and switched with a tridon switch (on at 95 and off at 90). Ran it until it got up to temp today, once the fan switches on it only takes around 20 seconds to take the temp back down to 90 degrees to switch off, then another couple of minutes to get back to 95. This is a huge positive, as with the old setup it would continue climbing with the two cheap fans on.

Next step is to find a current draw, as its drawing 0.29A with everything off. Then continuing to tidy it up. I have found so many things that i did years ago that I'm not happy with at all, and are redoing. Mostly adding fuses and relays to things that should have had them, putting shielding on all the wiring, and just generally making things neater and replacing old with new. Its nice not being at uni anymore and actually being able to buy things when i need them, rather then scabbing second hand stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #310
Found the current draw. Turns out this alternator needs a sensing wire to complete a circuit, otherwise it will draw current. Just need to order a plug for it from Toyota and wire it all up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Ordered a new heater core for this - $230 for a good copper/brass - very stoked with that price and no more plastic end tanks and fittings.

Have also booked the radiator in for filler modifications to tuck in it to clear the cooler hose and to raise it. Its currently the highest point in the system, but only by a couple of millimetres, so will raise it around 50mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #312
Now that i have moved away from the original engineer i was seeing about this i needed to find another. Rang up a fella in Rocky, explained what i had done etc, and he said no probs. Very good news, as he is only 270km from me instead of 850km, so will be able to drive it in and out in the same day.

Anyone know what sensor type the mazda speedo is, still having trouble getting a signal to it.
 

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Now that i have moved away from the original engineer i was seeing about this i needed to find another. Rang up a fella in Rocky, explained what i had done etc, and he said no probs. Very good news, as he is only 270km from me instead of 850km, so will be able to drive it in and out in the same day.

Anyone know what sensor type the mazda speedo is, still having trouble getting a signal to it.
Not sure what sensor type it is. I know mine has no cable.

$230, thats a good price for a heater core, where abouts did you get one?
 

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Discussion Starter #315
For anyone else interested the core came from Nambour Radiator Works. Same place i use for all my alloy welding etc.
 

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your sensor will be a nippon denso thats what the speedo cables are and most speedo sensors are that so just find the wire and connect it to the sensor 1 will be earth and 1 signal and if you need to im sure you can get a kit from jay car to change the signal.

p.s. if you connect the speedo wire with a 1a fuse if something isnt right you wont fry anything
 

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Discussion Starter #318 (Edited)
Well trying to get back into this once again. Feels like ive been trying to get motivated for years. I have received my teacher transfer back to civilisation so it will be much easier to work on. Will also be closer to places i can use it, so that's motivation in itself.

In the meantime ive been mucking around with the Patrol. Already been up cape york twice, across the simpson desert, through south australia, the victorian high country, fraser island and stockton beach. Ive given it an aftermarket turbo, 20psi boost, bug PWR front mount and its about to get water/meth injection. Diesel torque gets addictive, but now its time for real power.




 

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Discussion Starter #319
Another not so interesting update. I haven't really worked on this for the last couple of years as i have lived in the middle of no where as part of my 'country service' being a teacher (which has made it impossible to work on due to no auto shops and equipment).

Well... just got my teacher transfer back to civilisation (Gympie) and the tilt tray comes to pick up the Mazda and take it down there on the 3rd December. This means good things when it comes to finishing the project.

I have recently redone the entire intercooler system on it. It now runs a 80l Davies Craig water pump, 1" hose and fittings all the way through and i have had additional fittings welded onto the back of the cooler so it now has twin entries and exits and flow only goes one way. Should be adequate to hold big power now.
 

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Discussion Starter #320
Drove this around the block this morning. Drives really nice, but i really got get the kick down switch and power button wired up for the auto because its real doughy once your driving because the auto doesn't respond.

The tow company won't move cars unless they are driveable, so that's that box ticked.
 
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