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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My right rear widow regulator (jammed) so I took off the door panel after removing the regulator, I found this mess-




I found that the weak link on these regulators is twofold- first, there are no limit switches on these regulators, requiring the operator to release the switch when they hear the window hit the mechanical stops.

Second, the wire bail (pictured below) is nylon, with shallow grooves- this makes it easy for the cable to jump the bail and wrap into a knot. This peice should be made of steel IMO.

The photo below shows the bail AFTER I deepened the cable grooves with a dremel (with a 1/16th round bit) and small round file.




I went to my local Hardware store and bought 7 feet of 1/16 Stainless wire cable, and 4 1/16th cable crimps..

After removing the old cable, I threaded the new cable through the guides (below)



I can't go into too much detail on how to thread the bail- you just gotta play with it- I crimped the cable that goes onto the bottom of the bail first, wrapping the cable around the bail.

Then I put the bail ont the shaft, and pulled the other end of the cable very tightly, wrapping the top of the bail-


Then when I thought that I had it as tight as I could get it, I marked the cable with a sharpie- (where the crimp goes). After crimping, I rewrapped the cable and pushed the crimp into the bail





The little piece suspended below had to have it's tabs bent up to remove it from the widow slider- the crimp should be in the middle of the run.






This repair took me about 2 hours time and $5.00 in parts.

After installation, it worked great!

:thumbsup:
 

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great job
 

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Awesome work. I'm adding this to the repair guide. :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks- I had the time and got tired of looking at the suction cups holding the window up-

I hope this will help others out with thier regulators.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Something I thought I would add-

the cable should be wrapped onto the bail evenly. By this I mean that the same amount of cable should be on the bottom and top halves of the bail.

Then, the crimp for the window slider/mount should be crimped in the middle of the cabe run (as pictured).

This will ensure that full up and down travel is achieved.
 

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thought id better add to this..

if you solder or brase the end of the cable and file the end down smooth before threading it through the casing.

makes it alot easier to get the cable through the sheithing
 

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nice, my left rear window was messed up. my cable was frayed and in 3 pieces. My regulator was fine. I was going to do the same thing, just not the deeper grooves(didnt think about that). I saw this post and read through it. The deeper grooves are a definite before i reinstall the regulator. It started to rain so i used the destroyed cable to tie my window and the hole for the bolts to the rubber stops.
 

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My right rear widow regulator (jammed) so I took off the door panel after removing the regulator, I found this mess-
I found that the weak link on these regulators is twofold- first, there are no limit switches on these regulators, requiring the operator to release the switch when they hear the window hit the mechanical stops.
Second, the wire bail (pictured below) is nylon, with shallow grooves- this makes it easy for the cable to jump the bail and wrap into a knot. This peice should be made of steel IMO.
The photo below shows the bail AFTER I deepened the cable grooves with a dremel (with a 1/16th round bit) and small round file.
I went to my local Hardware store and bought 7 feet of 1/16 Stainless wire cable, and 4 1/16th cable crimps..

After removing the old cable, I threaded the new cable through the guides (below)

I can't go into too much detail on how to thread the bail- you just gotta play with it- I crimped the cable that goes onto the bottom of the bail first, wrapping the cable around the bail.

Then I put the bail ont the shaft, and pulled the other end of the cable very tightly, wrapping the top of the bail-


Then when I thought that I had it as tight as I could get it, I marked the cable with a sharpie- (where the crimp goes). After crimping, I rewrapped the cable and pushed the crimp into the bail

The little piece suspended below had to have it's tabs bent up to remove it from the widow slider- the crimp should be in the middle of the run.


This repair took me about 2 hours time and $5.00 in parts.

After installation, it worked great!

:thumbsup:
wow cool just wanna ask where is the photos you are talking about but good for you installation works great just wanted to see some parts like the cable, window regulator, and other parts that are included in your installation
 

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hi,

can you please update the photos? this would be very helpful. my read right window isnt working, seems the motor is ok, but the cable is faulty or something
 

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i recently purchased a 1992 929 with 25k miles on it. the right rear window quit working and im pretty sure its the regulator. i sure would like to try your method, but the pictures are missing. (maybe because i only have free membership?) if pics could be reposted or i could view another way, it would be very much appreciated. thanks :)
 

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I am trying to get mine repaired too. Any chance you can repost the pictures? They don't come up right now. Thank you!
 

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Hmmm....seems the original poster is no longer here....My Right Rear regulator went out last night. I will try to take some pics to update this page.

Such a nice car...I sure wish parts were more available.

We all need to support this group ... and each other;
 
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