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9 Posts
Hello Everyone,
Just completed rebuilding a set of b2000 front brake calipers. Some my be familiar, some may not. If this needs moved, I apologize. I frowned as learned that these calipers remanufactured are in the +$50 range and ordered two kits from autozone. #66403 (d351595) duralast.
I assume you have basic knowledge if you are attempting this. This is just to maybe save someone a little time, on their attempt. Of course, at your own risk.
Remove calipers!
I suggest to remove them with the rubber lines attached. For two reasons. Most brake services arise from failure, noise, or poor performance. Removing the rubber lines will allow you to blow through and wash them out, while checking for obstructions. This is important if a brake is dragging! Some hoses can collapse inside in such a way that allows high hydraulic pressure from the peddle to pass but will not allow the low pressure backflow to release the brake.
Also, if you are having caliper issues, chances are your hoses have aged enough to warrant replacement anyway. Be thorough or be scared!
There is another situation to which removing the lines will help. If there is a stuck brake, chances are your 100psi air compressor will not be strong enough to blow the piston out of the caliper. If you already have them off the truck, this is extremely frustrating. Cut an old line, and plug it. Screw the stuck caliper and hose back on the other side stomp the peddle repeatedly to push the stuck caliper apart. Or separate the stuck caliper BEFORE you remove anything else!
Back on track, remove and wash calipers and/or lines, slide pins, bleeders. Take your time here, any loose rust or debris on the calipers WILL make reassembly an absolute nightmare. Your new seals will be rubbing the outside diameters and become contaminated. Steel brushes and steel wool are great for clean up.
Using compressed air, blow through the brake hose to push the piston out of the housing.
Clean all debris and most of the discoloration from the piston outside diameter and the housings inside diameter. I personally choose to polish the pistons to a mirror shine.
Clean all your slide pins and boots. Straight sewing pins work great to clean out the bleeders.
Sorry, missing pictures for this. Somehow, they didn't save when I took them.
Set yourself up, everything cleaned, brake fluid in a solo cup bottom, q-tips because I hate brake fluid. Clamp for squeeze, DULL flat screwdriver, seal kit and deep calming breaths.
Piston is clean, when it looks like this.
Put the new square o-ring in the caliper housing and stretch the dust seal over the piston.
Push/twist/rock the piston into the housing.
If everything is as it should be, you most likely can squeeze it in by hand.
Note: do not leave the banjo bolt in the housing. The back of the piston can contact the banjo bolt if it is screwed in place without a line connected.
Start working the dust seal down into the housing.
The piston depth and seal started into the housing should look like this.
Now push the piston all the way down. Stop, when it stops moving, do not force it after it bottoms out!
Work the dust seal outer edge down into the housing more. Until it looks like this. If everything is clean, the dust seal may sink into place when pushing the piston all the way down.
Get your retainer clip and start working it in.
Just completed rebuilding a set of b2000 front brake calipers. Some my be familiar, some may not. If this needs moved, I apologize. I frowned as learned that these calipers remanufactured are in the +$50 range and ordered two kits from autozone. #66403 (d351595) duralast.
I assume you have basic knowledge if you are attempting this. This is just to maybe save someone a little time, on their attempt. Of course, at your own risk.
Remove calipers!
I suggest to remove them with the rubber lines attached. For two reasons. Most brake services arise from failure, noise, or poor performance. Removing the rubber lines will allow you to blow through and wash them out, while checking for obstructions. This is important if a brake is dragging! Some hoses can collapse inside in such a way that allows high hydraulic pressure from the peddle to pass but will not allow the low pressure backflow to release the brake.
Also, if you are having caliper issues, chances are your hoses have aged enough to warrant replacement anyway. Be thorough or be scared!
There is another situation to which removing the lines will help. If there is a stuck brake, chances are your 100psi air compressor will not be strong enough to blow the piston out of the caliper. If you already have them off the truck, this is extremely frustrating. Cut an old line, and plug it. Screw the stuck caliper and hose back on the other side stomp the peddle repeatedly to push the stuck caliper apart. Or separate the stuck caliper BEFORE you remove anything else!
Back on track, remove and wash calipers and/or lines, slide pins, bleeders. Take your time here, any loose rust or debris on the calipers WILL make reassembly an absolute nightmare. Your new seals will be rubbing the outside diameters and become contaminated. Steel brushes and steel wool are great for clean up.
Using compressed air, blow through the brake hose to push the piston out of the housing.
Clean all debris and most of the discoloration from the piston outside diameter and the housings inside diameter. I personally choose to polish the pistons to a mirror shine.
Clean all your slide pins and boots. Straight sewing pins work great to clean out the bleeders.
Sorry, missing pictures for this. Somehow, they didn't save when I took them.
Set yourself up, everything cleaned, brake fluid in a solo cup bottom, q-tips because I hate brake fluid. Clamp for squeeze, DULL flat screwdriver, seal kit and deep calming breaths.
Piston is clean, when it looks like this.
Put the new square o-ring in the caliper housing and stretch the dust seal over the piston.
Push/twist/rock the piston into the housing.
If everything is as it should be, you most likely can squeeze it in by hand.
Note: do not leave the banjo bolt in the housing. The back of the piston can contact the banjo bolt if it is screwed in place without a line connected.
Start working the dust seal down into the housing.
The piston depth and seal started into the housing should look like this.
Now push the piston all the way down. Stop, when it stops moving, do not force it after it bottoms out!
Work the dust seal outer edge down into the housing more. Until it looks like this. If everything is clean, the dust seal may sink into place when pushing the piston all the way down.
Get your retainer clip and start working it in.