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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,

Just completed rebuilding a set of b2000 front brake calipers. Some my be familiar, some may not. If this needs moved, I apologize. I frowned as learned that these calipers remanufactured are in the +$50 range and ordered two kits from autozone. #66403 (d351595) duralast.

I assume you have basic knowledge if you are attempting this. This is just to maybe save someone a little time, on their attempt. Of course, at your own risk.

Remove calipers!

I suggest to remove them with the rubber lines attached. For two reasons. Most brake services arise from failure, noise, or poor performance. Removing the rubber lines will allow you to blow through and wash them out, while checking for obstructions. This is important if a brake is dragging! Some hoses can collapse inside in such a way that allows high hydraulic pressure from the peddle to pass but will not allow the low pressure backflow to release the brake.
Also, if you are having caliper issues, chances are your hoses have aged enough to warrant replacement anyway. Be thorough or be scared!

There is another situation to which removing the lines will help. If there is a stuck brake, chances are your 100psi air compressor will not be strong enough to blow the piston out of the caliper. If you already have them off the truck, this is extremely frustrating. Cut an old line, and plug it. Screw the stuck caliper and hose back on the other side stomp the peddle repeatedly to push the stuck caliper apart. Or separate the stuck caliper BEFORE you remove anything else!

Back on track, remove and wash calipers and/or lines, slide pins, bleeders. Take your time here, any loose rust or debris on the calipers WILL make reassembly an absolute nightmare. Your new seals will be rubbing the outside diameters and become contaminated. Steel brushes and steel wool are great for clean up.

Using compressed air, blow through the brake hose to push the piston out of the housing.
Clean all debris and most of the discoloration from the piston outside diameter and the housings inside diameter. I personally choose to polish the pistons to a mirror shine.
Clean all your slide pins and boots. Straight sewing pins work great to clean out the bleeders.

Sorry, missing pictures for this. Somehow, they didn't save when I took them.
Wood Gas Recreation Table Circle

Set yourself up, everything cleaned, brake fluid in a solo cup bottom, q-tips because I hate brake fluid. Clamp for squeeze, DULL flat screwdriver, seal kit and deep calming breaths.
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Piston is clean, when it looks like this.
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Put the new square o-ring in the caliper housing and stretch the dust seal over the piston.
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Push/twist/rock the piston into the housing.
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If everything is as it should be, you most likely can squeeze it in by hand.
Note: do not leave the banjo bolt in the housing. The back of the piston can contact the banjo bolt if it is screwed in place without a line connected.
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Start working the dust seal down into the housing.
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The piston depth and seal started into the housing should look like this.
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Now push the piston all the way down. Stop, when it stops moving, do not force it after it bottoms out!
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Work the dust seal outer edge down into the housing more. Until it looks like this. If everything is clean, the dust seal may sink into place when pushing the piston all the way down.
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Get your retainer clip and start working it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wood Oil Liquid Personal protective equipment Automotive tire

Be patient, and don't poke holes in your new dust seal!
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When it is in and seated, it looks like this.
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Don't forget to clean and lube your slide pins!
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Clean out your bleeders and drum up some caps. I used silicone vaccum caps, that I already had. New brass washers are a good idea, as well as new rubber lines.
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Do it twice. These are ready for masking and paint. This is not a show truck, but it will look better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I spent approximately $10 dollars rebuilding my two calipers. It is not something to do if you are in a time crunch. The truck is a spare vehicle and I rather enjoy projects. Don't forget to lubricate the piston and o ring with brake fluid before assembly. Anti seize is great on bleeder threads, and ceramic brake lube is great on float pins and contact points of pads.

Reinstall on truck and start your favorite brake bleeding process. (The reason your girlfriend/wife has one big leg.)

Thanks everyone, happy wrenching! 🔧
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cleaning everything up very well is the key. I used steel wool on the piston and housing bores. Finished it off with a scotch brite pad and some metal polish on the piston, while watching television.

Thanks Axle: Unfortunately, it seems everything is marketed as throw away now. Worse with time. Glad to hear that I am not the only one, still doing things the hard way. Bahaha!

Now to decide what to do with my leftover $85...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's slick, it would double as a coolant pressure tester with the right cap adapter, too! My 2016 Cruze was a pita after my abs unit self-cycled DURING a brake service. I understand the GM despair.
Also, no proportioning valve woes. With the right chemicals, you could flush a/c systems and all.

You get points for simplicity. Nailed it! I think I am on board
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That shook a memory loose.... My grandfather owned and operated a body shop, 70's-80's One of my shop "toys" was a 2 liter bottle cap with a valve stem attached. I would fill the bottle 2/3 with water, put a bunch of air in it, and slam it in the parking lot. Water rocket! Kept me busy, I guess.

Same man, bought this b2000 that's the subject now. Truck was involved in an airport bi-plane crash @ 12,000 miles. Pilot/aircraft styled log of documentation was included with the truck. If this man added air to a tire, it was documented. Propeller shrapnel hit it above the back window. Small 1/2 CC stripe/dent almost centered above the glass. Completely overlook-able, but this pilot couldn't handle it. Grandfather bought the truck, rather than fix it for the pilot. This was years ago 88 maybe. I was into toyota 4wds at the time.

Truck now has 315,xxx miles on original engine, 2nd transmission. It WAS awesome driving it as a teenager, I used to run it against the first gen pgmfi preludes and old corollas. Eat them alive in corners and watch them gain it back on straights.

Now, I apologize to it with refurbishments and drive it in amazement, as all the other cars/trucks in the family from that era have long been scrapped. Sparing my 70 Elky, thanks to Papaw....

It's had all steering/suspension done fresh with a 2" -ish leveled static drop. Truck is heavily associated with my grandfather, so paint is off the table for now, for nostalgia. Most of the interior is nice again, with a lot of work sealing and painting the oem plastics and recovering materials. This truck is a dark grey se-5 graphic never been in a garage, driveway sitter.

Man... the older I get, the easier these ramblings tie together. I appreciate the sharing of the diy tools, it's enjoyable to see them. I am the only one in the family that still takes garage therapy. I may never recover!
 
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