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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

This is the the shift lever out of my truck. I want to replace the old rubber seal, but I'm not sure how to take this apart without damaging it. The ball that sits inside the transmission has a slot, but there is nothing to grab the top part with. Also, I don't think it is wise to use the transmission to hold the bottom while trying to remove the top with something like a pipe wrench. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!
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Howdy OGO! ABE here! (Axel Breaker Earl)
Believe it or not, the NEW rubber seal will slide down over the long shifter handle once you lube the handle with WD-40 or the like. You have to CUT the old rubber seal off, as well as cut the old rubber from around the metal plate that screws to the top of the transmission, then the "hole" in the metal plate is large enough to remove it by sliding it off of the long chrome shifter handle.

I may have some pics of me changing one of those shifter seal/boot......if I do, I will post them here. Welcome to the forum!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well that was super easy!!! Thanks Earl, glad I ran into you online again. I did all of the stuff under the shift boot. That red Florida truck is a joy, but the smell of transmission oil was getting to me:) Now for the radiator. I bought one from Rock Auto, but like everything under the hood these days, it's plastic. You think having the OG one repaired is worth it? A/C condenser is leaking too. There is a shop that repairs them, but again, do you think they would patch one hole only to have another show up. I tried to buy the condenser from Rock Auto, but the two they have have been out of stock for a while.
 

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Don't mind Cusser......he's cranky in the morning! ;)
Remember: I was a mad scientist. And getting madder all the time !!! And I'm in Arizona, so our mornings are longer, being out west and not understanding Daylight Savings Time.


A/C condenser is leaking too. There is a shop that repairs them, but again, do you think they would patch one hole only to have another show up. I tried to buy the condenser from Rock Auto, but the two they have have been out of stock for a while.
I believe the 1986-1993 AC condenser is no currently available new, so unless you want to try to fit a universal one in (and get new special lines made), I'd have the local shop fix it or try to find a good used one.


Now for the radiator. I bought one from Rock Auto, but like everything under the hood these days, it's plastic. You think having the OG one repaired is worth it? There is a shop that repairs them, but again, do you think they would patch one hole only to have another show up.
I run the all-aluminum 2-row radiator in my B2200, I'll assume you're talking B2200 or B2000. I think most or all of new vehicles these days have radiators with either plastic sides or plastic tops and bottoms (we had a plastic radiator side explode on a 2005 Yukon). So most replacement B2200 radiators will be part plastic. Since you'd have to take a hit returning that new radiator to RockAuto, if you haven't been running hot before your radiator leak maybe just run it. Of course, a radiator shop can inspect your old radiator and clean it out better than you can, and let you know if it's worth repairing.

Anyway, for the all-aluminum 2-row radiator, may be available but right now it seems radiators are on slow boat from China. Note that the all-aluminum radiator bolted in perfectly into my 1988 B2200, but since mine is 5-speed as well, I needed to drill holes for my fan shroud. I noticed Rock lists the all-aluminum radiator, but out of stock right now: LILAND GLOBAL 865AA More Information for LILAND GLOBAL 865AA
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got it Earl, sent mine back thanks.

Cusser, thanks for the info. I'll throw that crappy plastic one in for now. Probably last the rest of my life anyway as I don't commute with this truck. And yeah, I'll see if the shop can fix the condenser. They do "antique" radiators and a/c stuff over there. Guess I'm driving an antique. Happy that parts are available from the dealer though. I'd have been in trouble with the transmission if the parts under the shift boot were NLA.

Speaking of parts, for anyone doing this to an 86 - 93 4X4, you will need:
M513-17-480A BOOT DUST $60.91 (2 needed)
UC86-64-481 INSULATOR $32.38
UC86-64-482 INSULATOR $19.03

My truck was a well maintained Florida truck so if all those pars were gone, I'd imagine every truck needs this treatment. Get 'em while you can!
 

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Maybe you just need to use technical service to solve this problem? Likewise, it takes time and money to buy a car, but if you want to achieve goals, I can help. When I chose the car, I made the decision to look at the the cars from this resource httрs://carbuzz.com/cars/luxury-electric-cars as it helped me to get what I needed. Usually, this source includes the ability to view diversity goods, so you can also use it.
 

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The "Problem" has been solved........by the owner contacting other members that have done this work before!

No need to click on the link you provided, so you can benefit from it!

And it is a TRUCK that we're talking about......not an ELECTRIC CAR!

Looks, Smells, and Acts like a SPAMMER!!
 
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