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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright I've been trying to do my homework on this, and I'm on a budget. I know this issue has been beat to death, I did search the forum. I wanna order everything I need soon. I know I need a cone filter, round-tapered with a 3" flange inside diameter, does anybody have a good model #? As for as the intake tube, I was gonna get some 3" aluminum tubing....should I get something with a 45 degree bend or 90??(Mazda has my car again to repair/replace a hose going to the vapor cannister, so I can't just look!) If I go with 45 would I end up making it real short?? Maybe that's a good thing, don't know...I'm gonna cut the tube to size, file the edges, and attach it to a 3" adapter on the VAF with an intake coupler and clamps. And then I'll attach the filter with another coupler and a some clamps, sound about right?? Oh and I guess I have to drill a hole in the tube and put a grommet in that to attach the hose that goes to that solenoid. I was also thinking about a heat shield if I can find one cheap. I thought about painting the tube with heat resistant paint too, maybe, but like I said I'm on a budget!! I'm also going to be getting a free-er flowing muffler like a Dynomax super turbo...not enough money to get custom exhaust..So, and guidance or advice??? Thanks
 

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now ive tried many variations of the intake and exhaust set ups on the HC 929 with the stock N/A motor. i suggest cold air and a straight pipe from cat convertor to a chambered muffler and out.

doing the intake is the cheapest HP for the $$$ especially if you do a cold air set up which is slightly harder but not by much.

this is what youll need:

MAF adapter plate (~$25) goes in place of the stock air box. bolts to the MAF sensor & has an adapter for a 3" pipe/filter on the other end.

clamps about 2 or 4 for cold air.

rubber sleeve for pipe if u use one.

a good cone filter, get a K&N (~$25-35) they are good & reusable, lots others even $$$ ones but not necessary. i used a huge k&n filter, 3" and about 10" long. sounds real nice.

3" piping (optional) you can go without it but if you decide to go wid it, youd wanna clamp it right on to the adapter plate. its gonna be better than the stock set up but it will be around warm air especially in those hot Georgia summers. thats why i think its better to get a 3" pipe about a foot or more in length but with a 90 degree (i think) bend, bascially enough bend to reach into the lower fender after youve drilled a 3" hole. i borrowed my piping form a Accord short ram intake. look at my pic and look under the area where the stock air box sits, you will see where intercooler piping would have run if this car where in Japan with the 2L turbo option, and thats where i drilled my hole for the intake pipe. basically you are putting the cone filter in the area where the intercooler was ment to be if our car was in Japan with the turbo engine.

see how i have the stock ducting and how i drilled a small hole for the vacuum line to run into the pipe. you will have to attach the metal bracket with the other vacuum lines and wiring like i have did to the stock support of the air box


u can see where the intake pipe bolts to the MAF or watever and its connected with a sleeve, i borrowed a AEM one from a friend. u can also see the small vacuum line run into the red pipe, and the it disappears into the fender. i later ripped out my intake duct.


going with a custom set up is the next best bang for the buck, its easy on the 929. I suggest spend the extra $50 on piping a get it straight through from the cat, deleting the stock resonator and RV sized muffler. thats what i have but i finish mine off with a N1 style muffler. a Dynomax with a nice tip will work fine.

use no bigger than 2.5" piping, see how mine goes way back to the cat. its straight through and using a chamber styled muffler (Dynomax) will be alot quieter than my straight through muffler


at the time 2 years ago, this is the style i liked, the muffler also sits angled and slanted upwards/outwards. i would like to change it if i could afford too wid something more classy and VIP stlye.


im never doin this again it will be archived for ever now !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the write up 9ine. You've got me thinking. I wanna take a look at my car and plan all this out. The only question I can think of now is: As far as the straight pipe from the cat back, is this a diy-er...I'm pretty sure I don't have the funds for having anything done at a shop! Also, I'm weary of the chance of getting water in the cone...so yours sticks out 10" out from the fender??(Am I misunderstanding your set up?) Like I said, I'm gonna take a peak at the situation once I get my car back...maybe I can get an open cap cone running down to the fender, drill the hole and run a drain pipe elbow out to suck up air....hhmmm, can't wait till Mazda gets it together gives me my car back so I can look at everything!!
 

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the exhaust isnt really a DIY, the intake is. its better to pay ~$100 to get the pipe made & have everything mounted properly. for the cold air, there is really no chance of water getting in the filter, ive had my cold air for 3 years and im from vancouver where it rains half the year. the intake pipe runs into the fender well and the cone filter is about 10" long. nothing sticks outta the car, its protected by the plastic splash shields from underneath. i also mounted a small metal splash shield on the side of the filter where it could possibly get wet from inside the fender. take a look in the driverside fender well and you will see vent holes for where the intercooler should be, thats the only place where you have a chance of getting the filter wet. just dont drive the 929 into huge puddle that you think might be deep...
 

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just dont drive the 929 into huge puddle that you think might be deep...
[/b]

Yeah the last thing you wanna do is hydrolock the engine that you prolly paid mazda up the ass to install.

The intake is really a DIY and so is exhaust ..... as long as you have certain skills, but exhaust is really a more expensive project. I just got my SHO started that i converted from an ATX to an MTX and i gotta build an exhaust system, cost me a 100$ in piping and mufflers and i still gotta spend like 150$ or something on other misc crap, like flanges, after that'll come in i'll get to cutting and welding everything together.

BTW the exhaust i built for the 929 is holding up great, i fixed the hangers and the flanges dont pinch the gasket, i also learned of a new flange called ball flange, and that doesnt require gaskets so its more reliable. I'll be using those in my sho.


 

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mine has dual cats then dual pipes that enter and exit a front muffler, with dual pipes then entering a final muffler, but with only one pipe coming out of it. If I ever do anything, their will be dual pipes coming off the back of mine.

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsb...Muffler&dp=true
 

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its different for the 929S though cause in stock form most of it almost comes like a true dual set up (gotta get the DOCH heads on the SOHC block !). for SOHC engines the 2 exhaust headers join up right away and having a dual set up is useless. on the DOHC if you were to do a custom set up it, you should keep it dual right up to a twin inlet muffler or watever.
 

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uh duals are virtually useless acept for bragging right, you can get as mutch airflow as you need and more with a single setup if you just go with a big enough pipe. At some point there will be too mutch flow and you will loose backpressure resulting in a powerloss. IE if you go with a 3" single exhaust you will not have ANY b/p and it'll suck balls, anyhoo thats on a DOHC engine i dunno about the sohc, but i would guess its the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's a good looking setup dmeetro! Oh and 9ine, I finally got to look at my car and saw what you were saying about the CIA....looks promising! As far as the exhaust, doesn't look as easy as I thought it might be. According to my files, the people who owned the car before me had gotten new front and rear mufflers put on by midas in 96...but I assume its extremely similar to the oem setup because the muffler is a damn tank!! Almost 22" long!! I thought I'd be able to chop off the pipe before the muffler and clamp a new one on...but I wasn't thinking right. First I can't weld! So I can't weld any of the rods that connect the muffler to the hangers(I don't know what they're called) Also there's a bend immediately before the muffler, I was hoping it would be nice and straight...after that the flange is only 3-4" away and its on an angle..so I can't get a break! Anyway I think I'll inquire at a couple different places how much to run a pipe straight off the cat to the new muffler and also ask about just putting the muffler on....either way I probably don't have the money for that right now...I'm backed up for a while after the engine thing....and the CIA's gonna end up being about $100 it looks like. Damn, I really wanted to give that extra air somewhere to go!! Thanks for all the insight guys...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was just reading something and wanted to ask...if I removed everything from that first flange back, bought a muffler and took it to a muffler shop..would they just bend a pipe, put a flange on and weld those "hanger rods" in the proper places for me?? Am I saving any money that way?? I know I'd go get a flange gasket and some new hangers, but in the long run I wonder if I'd save...hhmmm
 

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uh duals are virtually useless acept for bragging right, you can get as mutch airflow as you need and more with a single setup if you just go with a big enough pipe. At some point there will be too mutch flow and you will loose backpressure resulting in a power loss. if you go with a 3" single exhaust you will not have ANY b/p and it'll suck balls, anyhoo thats on a DOHC engine i dunno about the sohc, but i would guess its the same.
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i know what you are tryin to say about a single set up being as efficiant as a dual set up. the reason why id say go dual is cause of the sound you get from twin pipes through out the car, i think it sounds much better imo. its not like i sayin run twin 3" piping out back, if i had a DOHC HC id go wid twin 2.25" piping which is small enough to not lose back pressure. id already experienced that when i used a straight pipe on my 929 from the cat all the way to a resonated tip, my car sounded damn close to a stang and was raspy as f***.

That's a good looking setup dmeetro! Oh and 9ine, I finally got to look at my car and saw what you were saying about the CIA....looks promising! As far as the exhaust, doesn't look as easy as I thought it might be. According to my files, the people who owned the car before me had gotten new front and rear mufflers put on by midas in 96...but I assume its extremely similar to the oem setup because the muffler is a damn tank!! Almost 22" long!! I thought I'd be able to chop off the pipe before the muffler and clamp a new one on...but I wasn't thinking right. First I can't weld! So I can't weld any of the rods that connect the muffler to the hangers(I don't know what they're called) Also there's a bend immediately before the muffler, I was hoping it would be nice and straight...after that the flange is only 3-4" away and its on an angle..so I can't get a break! Anyway I think I'll inquire at a couple different places how much to run a pipe straight off the cat to the new muffler and also ask about just putting the muffler on....either way I probably don't have the money for that right now...I'm backed up for a while after the engine thing....and the CIA's gonna end up being about $100 it looks like. Damn, I really wanted to give that extra air somewhere to go!! Thanks for all the insight guys...
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if your gonna go the cheap route with the exhaust do what i did the 1st time i messed wid mine. unbolt the huge rear muffler from the the flange closest to the small resonator. go to a shop and tell them to fab you up some straight pipe attaching it to the resonator or jus after it. run 2.25" pipe all the way out back and you can even use a tip if you want. it will be a hell of alot more freer flowing with the RV sized muffler off. this set up is suprisingly quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
if your gonna go the cheap route with the exhaust do what i did the 1st time i messed wid mine. unbolt the huge rear muffler from the the flange closest to the small resonator. go to a shop and tell them to fab you up some straight pipe attaching it to the resonator or jus after it. run 2.25" pipe all the way out back and you can even use a tip if you want. it will be a hell of alot more freer flowing with the RV sized muffler off. this set up is suprisingly quiet.
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That may very well be the way I go! So do to the fact that the resonator is still on I will have enough back pressure, right? I don't want to sacrifice any low-end for high-end, I like having more power during initial acceleration but overall I don't drive 'that' fast...So are there things I can use to hang this new pipe that don't require welding?? If somebody can point to a link for what I should be using(just so I can see it!) that'd be cool....and give me a sort of "dummy guide" on how to use them....Thanks guys!! After I learn this stuff, I'll answer the new noobs so that you guys can sit back and relax...lol

edit: man I hope that muffler doesn't drop on me and kill me!!
 

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if you dont know how to weld then the only option is to take it to the shop. you gotta pay to play. backpressure will be fine, i feel it is this way cause of the lenght of the pipe. even when i had full straight pipe i dint lose that much low end power, the high end gains were real nice though. pulling up to 100mph became easier...
 

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After I learn this stuff, I'll answer the new noobs so that you guys can sit back and relax...lol

edit: man I hope that muffler doesn't drop on me and kill me!!
[/b]
I enjoy answering questions abotu stuff i know, as far as hoping taht muffler doesnt drop on ur head.... well lets just say i made a little invertment into a hard hat after i got my eye brow sliced open when fitting the muffler on the 929 :whistle:.


Oh and that blue paint never stuck to the pipe; unfortunatly it burned off with in a couple hours driving, i painted it with the 1600 deg paint but it was in a humid warehouse so it never got the chance to dry completely. Leasson learned and i'll just have to paint my next exhaust somewhere more dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Damn that sucks about the paint...looked good! Yeah, I'm not going to play with that beast of a muffler..I called a bunch of shops to get ballpark estimates and of course they wanna look before they lock in a price...but it looks like its gonna cost me about $50-60...I've got one shop in mind because they were the nicest and most informative..so if they look and tell me anything under $70, I'll just get them to do it! I think I'll go with a k&n filter for the CIA...re-0910 or re-0930 look promising...gonna get the maf adapter and other install stuff I need at autozone..they have a plastic maf adapter for 6.99 and a metal one for 11.99..and then I'm gonna order an aluminized pipe from summit...Thanks for all the help!!! Damn that must've sucked to get clocked by that muffler!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay...so I took off work and got my exhaust done today and I could feel a difference, and by different I mean good! The sound is louder, but not too loud...however I could stand to have it quieter by just a little...if I go cheapo and get like a $20-25 resonated tip, will that give me what I'm looking for you think?? I mean do they really make a noticable difference?? When I say cheapo I mean like this:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PILPM551
or
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...t=egnsearch.asp
 

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so what did you exactly get done to the exhaust ? did u just do straight pipe from the resonator to the tip ? how are the power gains ? did you lose any low end torque ? does the 929 "feel" faster ?

id go with the first style tip, the last one is crap. make sure you get about a 3" outlet and it should resonated so it will help tame the sound slightly, probably tone it down a bit. i had mine welded but it shouldnt make a big difference.

wheres the pics at ?

heres a shot of the rear of my car when i had a simialr set up with a resonated tip. mine is a slash cut resonated tip and it was 3.5"
 

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dang--I need to do some research. I live in a place where my car has to pass emissions. I do not know if I can even remove the muffler and still pass.
 

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a muffler doesnt have anything to do wid emissions it just muffles noise. everything behind the cat convertor takes care of pollution.

id like to see a 929S wid a proper set up, i bet theres is some real power there, for sure more than a single cam 929.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey 9ine, I got them to remove the muffler right before the flange and run a straight pipe from there...they cut it at an angle so it actually doesn't look bad at all, just not shiny...I'll borrow my bro's camera and take pics, after all you guys have never seen it..I'm about to do a few things to it, so I'll take pics during my project...btw I've never understood the difference between torque and horsepower...bbuutt, the car definetly feels quicker!! Hey Sickwilly from what I understand the muffler has absolutely nothing to do with emissions!! So get that tank off of your exhaust! Next step, CAI!! The process of unleashing this V6 has begun! So 9ine, your saying the pilot tip is better?? Is the one in that link okay?? Its Inlet Diameter: 2 3/4" and Outlet Diameter: 3 1/2"...my new pipe is 2 1/2......Thanks

BTW Sickwilly I'm going to do my emissions tommorrow..I'm not tagged properly right now!!
 
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