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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I just registered and an not really new to mazdas. I owned a 1985 Ford Escort that had the Mazda RF diesel engine in it. Great car. Poor maintenance by the previous owner. Lost the lower radiator hose, warped head, and cant find a replacement head. Too bad. Also, had a 93 Ford Probe. Great car. Wish I would have kept it after I replaced the auto tranny, but the next owner's daughter trashed the trans in a short order.

So, that bring me to the next car. My brother's 99 Millenia S. I decided to do a t-belt change for him, along with any other maintenence he needed on the car at that time. Pulled off the front intercooler to change the front spark plugs, and lots of oil int he intercooler. Pulled off the upper intake... lots of oil there too and apool of oil in the supercharger. Supercharger is off and starting to be taken apart...

I'm really tearing into this thing and want to see if there are replacement generic seals/bearings we could use to rebuild them cheap and on our own... but I dont want to destroy this thing as I want to give this car back to my brother and get MY car back.

So, does anyone have a cheap (ie $100 shipped) supercharger they could get rid of for the purposes of this project? It's for a good cause :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There are a couple of used superchargers between 75-125 dollars on eBay now. Not sure where else to get one other than a local or online salvage.[/b]
There's 1 with a buy it now of $175 and 5 days left on it. 1 bid of $75 on it so far, means I wont get it cheap. There's another that's already at 4 bids and around $165. And another one with a starting bid of $99 and almost 7 days left on it. Everything else is the fake superchargers.
 

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Typically people go with a rebuild one for around $2k. You never know the condition of an ebay one.. But if you are mechanically inclined go for it...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, got it mostly apart. Looks like each rotor has 2 ball bearings at the snout end. Underneath those bearings is a sleeve bearing. This sleeve bearing may be the graphite bearing everyone talks about, but it doesnt seem like it's made of graphite. It seems like it's steel so it may be a regular sleeve.

The male rotor has the larger bearing and it's a NTN 1832A. The female rotor is smaller and is NTN 3215a. Those numbers are for the top bearing. I believe the bearings underneath those have the same number minus the A. I'll have to check tommorow.

The bearings seem to be unsealed caged roller bearings. They are oil bathed at the snout end which also lubes the helical gears.The portion underneath the 'sleeve' bearing on the rotors also has a chamber which receives oil. There doesnt seem to be any seal to prevent oil from flowing from the bearings onto the rotors... or perhaps mine are completely washed away? I did notice the lower oiling chamber was full of crud and it took me a whole can of carb cleaner to wash out all the sludge.

My brother noticed smoking one winter when he decided to use that Mobil 10,000 mile oil. I think he ended up putting like 15,000 miles on that oil before we changed it out.

Unfortunately, when I drove out the outer bearing, it popped the inner race, cage, and balls out, but left the outer race in the housing. It's in there. it aint coming out. I'm probably gonna have to cut them. This isnt that big of a deal since I'm going to press new ones in.

My male rotor has one of the corners cracked off at the intake end. It's not bent or anything and it still spins smooth... but looking at that, I might need a replacement piece. So again, i call out for any cheap superchargers that one could sell me for the cause.

Pics tomorrow... or soon. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
see if those help at all until one of the other guys comes...
and i'll sell you my sc thats being ripped out. real good shape.[/b]
How much?
You can PM me if you don't want to say in public.
 

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I sell NTN bearing numbers but can't get those numbers out of my warehouse. Any auto shop that sells bearings like BCA, Federal Mogul, Bower and Timken will all sell bearings under those numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you look at the top picture and can see the larger portion of the shaft. Those parts sit inside the "oil chamber" underneath the ball bearings. It sorts acts like a fluid bearing and I think it's just depending on the close tolerances of the shoulder on the shaft and the housing to keep oil out of the housing and the fact that compressed air is pushing against that portion and trying to fill the chamber full of air. So, it's a battle of oil pressure pushing out, and air pressure pushing in.

When I sprayed/scraped stuff out, it looked and felt like black velveeta.

I usually get my bearings from NAPA, and will go with the generics for replacement. If I cant get the right ones, I can always bore/sleeve it to another bearing.
 

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Damn cheap compared to around 1300, you won't do it cheap, but several hundred dollars is very cheap
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I dont see it being close to several hundred dollars. maybe $100. bearings are cheap. I do all my own machine work.
 

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If you can rebuild it depending on the quality you can start a small business out of it..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's looking like, as long as the rotors and the compression chamber isnt trashed, it should be rebuildable.
 

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Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, got all 4 bearings out and here's what I found... The bearings are held in by a resin/fiber ring. It's like an o-ring on the outside of the bearing. I tried using a 12 ton press to press them out and that didnt work. I resorted to using the dremel and got the outers out and then I could press the inners out. There is a piece of graphite in there. it's a spring loaded ring, but it's not really a seal. It's more of a check valve.

Then there's that 'oiling chamber' I was talking about. I think it's hooked to vacuum and sucks out any oil that may get past. What happens is the mazda t-sections on the vacuum hoses either break and it no longer provides vacuum which eventually cokes due to the heat at that area, or lack of maintenence causes that chamber to get clogged full of poo and clogs the line in the process and no vacuum is applied to that chamber. Either way, it looks like to get it properly cleaned, you'll have to pull the supercharger apart, and to get it REALLY clean, you have to remove those bearings.

When I put mine back together, I'm gonna design it for easy maintenence. No more fiber o-ring. I'll use drill, tap, and use a set screw on the side of the bearing to hold it in. I'm gonna need another supercharger in case this doesnt work though.

I'll have to wait until 30 posts before I can beg for a supercharger in the classified section. :)

EDIT: OMG spelling.
 
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