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Yes, two people have tried to rebuild the supercharger on this post and both of them mysteriously stopped posting for over a year now. Maybe thats why PSE charges twice as much for a Milly rebuilt than either Mercedes or Aston Martin.
 

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Yes, two people have tried to rebuild the supercharger on this post and both of them mysteriously stopped posting for over a year now. Maybe thats why PSE charges twice as much for a Milly rebuilt than either Mercedes or Aston Martin.[/b]
Sounds like a tag line in a horror movie. "2 people tried to rebuild the supercharger and both of them MYSTERIOUSLY DISAPPEARED!!!" :lol:
Jokes aside, if it's easy, a new one from Mazda won't be 6 grand and a lot of people will have them for sale on this board.
 

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i tried ATP AT-205 additive to address an unrelated hidden engine oil leak and my car is running much smoother now. A mech i trust recommended this bc it wont cause your seals to fail. it also cleans and protects the system. It says it can be used in almost any hydraulic system, except for the brake system. I wonder if it's a good gunk cleaner for the s/c...


http://www.atp-inc.com/products/
 

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hhhmmmmm...[/b]
are you suggesting i am advertising?

i read the back of the bottle.

i put the not for brake system disclaimer so someone doesnt pour it in there and blame me. :p
 

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dear all gurus, i got a serious problem rite now. just installed a charger from '99. the problem is, CHARGER IS SUCKING THE OIL FROM THE OIL RESERVOIR. this happens very fast (a full reservoir will be empty in minutes). i tried to take out the charger belting(i.e charger is not belt driven) but i can see that the charger is spinning slowly due to the suction from the engine. and during this time, the oil from the reservoir is still decreasing. by oil reservoir, i mean a separate reservoir for the s/c alone. i bought the motor with s/c and its oil reservoir and oil pump. the oil i'm referring to is the s/c oil. any problem that i'm facing?? i don't think this has to to with the valve seals. PLEASE HELP!!!
 

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holy thread redirection batman!

was browsing a week ago and found this thread.
turned out to be no use to me.
so
i went ahead and did it myself.
have now completed the rebuild, if you guys are still having trouble i can post more info? ill make up a decent reply if nobody else has s far. i also managed to not be exterminated my the mythological ihi rebuild exterminators :p
 

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Please post. The biggest pain seems to be getting the thing apart without ruining it. And that the growing consensus is that the SCs fail, not because of some mechanical fault, but due to oiling issues caused by poor maintenance.
 

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Please post. The biggest pain seems to be getting the thing apart without ruining it. And that the growing consensus is that the SCs fail, not because of some mechanical fault, but due to oiling issues caused by poor maintenance.
i agree crud build up is the only way i can see these seals will leak, if its just a clean up the unit can be spit and the rotors removed without damaging anything. you can do this and give the 2 halves of the cases a good clean, i boiled mine for 2 hours in a soulution of water and dishwashing tablets ;) DIY hot wash. this will coupled with a blow out with an airline will remove any poo's causing an issue

the damage occurs when removing bearings without knowing how they are assemebled.

the bearings are sealed with what is essentaily a sleeve/washer that is a highly tolerenced fit over the rotor shaft , this is push sealed into the outer race of the bearing by this mythical 'graphite' spring loaded bearing.

when trying to press out the bearing (mine had play so i replaced them) the sealing sleeve will die a horrible death as it is hardened to about 50 Rockwell and simply shatters, if the carbon alloy/graphite is even slightly caught it will also break. had i known this before hand or if i do this again i will tig weld something to the outer race and pull the bearings out, thus eliminating any damage and saving some money. neither the sealing sleeve or the spring loaded carbon ring are a purchasable part and i had a friend of mine remake
these, luckily the bearings were on the shelf at my local bearing shop.

in the next week or so ill upload a how to with pictures and diagrams of how to do the strip and clean, i wouldn't advise anybody try bearing replacement unless they are very confident, in which case knowing that the bearings need to be pulled not pressed will be enough info
 

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Yes, please post! I've got my SC off right now doing the head gaskets, so I'd love to give it a good clean before putting it back in :)
 

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I just bought a milly today that is smoking,thought it good value even with the cost of replacing the S/C.
Would like to attempt to rebuild the thing on my own , not totally useless in the shop. I have read many post but couldn't understand why there is only one place that does do a rebuild and why we cant. "wishtoremain" mentioned that he had to get a couple of parts made up
sealing sleeve or the spring loaded carbon ring are a purchasable part and i had a friend of mine remake
these
could you get some more made up if required?

regardless I do understand pull not push, look forward to hearing about how you have progressed so far

"Edit"
Spent all day today reading post hopping to find someone who had successfully rebuilt the supercharger themselves, no luck.

From what I understand the oil leak is due to blocked vacuum in the supercharger causing the oil to flow through the bearings .
I admit I am a noob and I'm yet to actually see the super charger,but would it be possible to tap into the oil chamber of the super charger and attach another vacuum line?

I fear without a suitable solution the millenia s (800m,zedos 9) is doomed as suitable SC became unavailable.
It may be that the community of supporters need to develop an alternative adapter and cradle that would support the Eaton and a bonnet scoop to allow for the extra height.

Although the market has already buried this marvelous car if were to go on there resale value it seems if an alternative can be found then its death could be prolonged a while longer.

did I rant on to long?
 

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drilling a new vac line is a bit excessive, mine was completely blocked and full of crud and showing signs of a big leak. after a good clean it now seems to work fine and the vac line is clean as can be.

sorry for the wait on a post up, our workshop was damaged in an earthquake and im still moving all my stuff out, my camera is somewhere amongst the boxes of crap.

from what i can see. if your bearings are in good order then there is no reason to remove them. if you strip it down and take the rotors out you can give the two ends of the housing a good few hours in a boil wash with a detergent and the crap will clean its self out. it helps to hold the seal open a little(i just wedged a paperclip in there) ill try and make more sense of this with pictures later on


while im here could you guys tell me how much boost these run factory on the millenia and what the standard drive ratio is? my charger isnt going on a mazda and i have never owned one so i dont know
 

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Sounds like a tag line in a horror movie. "2 people tried to rebuild the supercharger and both of them MYSTERIOUSLY DISAPPEARED!!!" :lol:
Jokes aside, if it's easy, a new one from Mazda won't be 6 grand and a lot of people will have them for sale on this board.
It seems I may be joining the ranks of those gone missing soon.
Got the supercharger of my milly today and I am determined to have a go at a rebuild during the week.

if I fail I will see you all on the other side.
 

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do this



same again on the other side behind the frost plug/bung things
a bit of tapping


this bit here is the troublesome seals, i cant see them wearing out before the rest of the charger is scrap so don try and take them out (like i did) as they WILL break


instead give them a very through clean in hot detergent for several hours then blow out with compressed air and another hot soak


here you can see the seals (the offset bit in the holes) these spin against a spring loaded part of the seal on the side closest to the camera, make sure this bit springs freely before and after cleaning, if not clean and lube more and more and more



unfortunaly i cant find the photos of the seal i broke, maybe later kids
so for now here's a picture of a pretty BOV i started to make
 

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This post just got a whole lot more interesting!
That is some nice work wishtore...
A few questions.. that appears to be a rather large 12 point nut on the end of the shaft. What size is it?
Those bearings are hard to tell from the pics but are they needle or ball bearings?
Is it possible to press them out?
What type of mill/lathe are you working with? What is that BOV going on?
I done with my share of questions now.:D
Great job!
 
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