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I'm pretty sure this is what PSE is doing. Paying $50 for cores, cleaning them up, then reselling them for two grand as "rebuilt."

Ya, I tend to agree. They just throw a coat of paint on there, but essentially just wash and re-sell.

If you read the paper that comes with the PSE supercharger they have a very interesting "priming" procedure which tells me there is no oil in the charger when shipped. If I was rebuilding a supercharger I'd probably put a little oil on my parts when re-assembling which would be enough for initial start. No oil and a priming procedure is more in line with them not being able to get in there in the first place. Just tearing it down as far as it will go and cleaning up the crap in there...

hrm. I never did send back my core, instead opting to pay the $250 and keep my original charger. I think I may have a new project when the weather gets a little warmer muhahahah ;)

Great work!!! I think this will help us keep these cars going a little while longer :)
 

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bov's i made 2 of they are going on a 1978 LB lancer with a 4g63 using a milly charger.

the 12 point nut is somewhere between 19 and 24mm it was a while ago that i did this but its just a regular 12point socket nothing fancy.

as for bearings they are roller bearings and ball bearings and there is no room to press them so they have to be carefully pulled out, i replaced 2 of mine
the first i tried to press and broke the seal the second i pulled and with more success
the bearings are set into the case and are a PITA to remove, ask you local bearing shop for some retaining bond when reinstalling new ones
 

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Looks nice but I got stuck,got the two bolts of no prob but how did you remove the gears.

I was also thinking maybe we could use sealed ceramic bearings and not worry about oil seals.
 

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so It's been almost a year since anyone has kicked this thread. I'm just wondering if any of the original posters are still getting email cc's about this thread and would care to come back and share their experience. at the very least some additional pictures if they don't want to reveal all their secrets.

also, in a somewhat related topic, I removed the pulley on my charger only to reveal the oil seal around the input shaft is leaking slightly. Does anyone know what a replacement P/N is for it. there is nothing in the Mazda EPC and trying to cross reference these **** oil seals seems to be a real PITA.
 

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There are soooo many used superchargers on ebay these days, just checked right now, and there are 8 available from anywhere from 300 to 500 dollars. Several of them have 30 and 90 day warranty, and say they were pulled from a perfectly working car with no smoke.

It's almost not worth rebuilding one or buying one that is rebuilt. Probably better just taking a chance on ebay. Even if you get a bad one and then have to buy a second one, it still is way cheaper than a rebuild.

At between $1,600-$1,800 for a "rebuilt" supercharger, you could buy 4 or 5 ebay units. I'm sure that from a probability standpoint you would get a good one on ebay with those odds.

Now if you want to do a rebuild yourself, more from a project standpoint and learning experience, that's different. That's worth doing if you want to tinker around with one. But from a financial standpoint, it is probably not worth rebuilding with so many perfect condition used ones floating around.
 

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Thanks mazda-fla

It was more just for my own curiosity of "how things work". I actually have a spare charger sitting on my shelf plus the one in my car is a PSE rebuild so no need personally for a new one. I was just curious...
 

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Im a newbie to this thread... but no newbie to the mazda motors. owned a 1991 probe GT, 1993 probe GT 2.5L engine, 1997 Mazda Millenia L 2.5L engine, and now I bought a 2000 Mazda Millenia S millennium edition i just picked up last friday.

I bought it for $800.00. guy said its got bad oil seals in the SC and doesnt wanna take on the project and has found out a new one cost $1,650.00. Im gonna buy one on ebay, so i have an extra SC in case my rebuild of this one leaking goes bad. however, im worried its probably more than a leaky seal in the sc. it was like SOLID smoke coming out of the exhaust when i first picked it up and i was able to drive it on the trailer and bring it home. this car is worth $4,400.00-$4,700.00 fixed up right now. so i think i got a good deal. body wise is not horrible but not excellent. I wil post pics of my car in a newbie or intro thread... not here to hijack either.


does anyone else have this experience? i mean it was SOLID smoking coming out... not like some see through smoke.. this was some heavy cigar smoker type. i did call mazda and a new full assembled engine is currently $6,400.00. im hoping its not something else this guy tried to hide from me.
 

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Im a newbie to this thread... but no newbie to the mazda motors. owned a 1991 probe GT, 1993 probe GT 2.5L engine, 1997 Mazda Millenia L 2.5L engine, and now I bought a 2000 Mazda Millenia S millennium edition i just picked up last friday.

I bought it for $800.00. guy said its got bad oil seals in the SC and doesnt wanna take on the project and has found out a new one cost $1,650.00. Im gonna buy one on ebay, so i have an extra SC in case my rebuild of this one leaking goes bad. however, im worried its probably more than a leaky seal in the sc. it was like SOLID smoke coming out of the exhaust when i first picked it up and i was able to drive it on the trailer and bring it home. this car is worth $4,400.00-$4,700.00 fixed up right now. so i think i got a good deal. body wise is not horrible but not excellent. I wil post pics of my car in a newbie or intro thread... not here to hijack either.


does anyone else have this experience? i mean it was SOLID smoking coming out... not like some see through smoke.. this was some heavy cigar smoker type. i did call mazda and a new full assembled engine is currently $6,400.00. im hoping its not something else this guy tried to hide from me.
where do you get that 4400-4700? resale on a millenia is in the toilet. here locally 01 and 02 are going for 3500, and not smoking.

2001 Mazda Millenia super charge, 4 door auto, pearl white 142 k miles

2002 MAZDA MILLENIA S

and that sure sounds like a fubar engine, not the compressor. as in broke piston(s) or rings. the good news is that you can get a jdm motor for about a grand. the bad news is that after you install it, the car is still only worth about 2k
 

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Sounds like more than the supercharger for that amount of smoke.

One quick way to check is to remove the top half of the air filter box, then remove the air hose, then remove the resonator box. Get it stripped down to where you are at the throttle body. Then open the butterfly of the throttle body and look inside. You can then see right into the supercharger. You will see the two pressed in caps where the seals are and see the rotors. See if that is clean and dry looking in there, or full of puddling and dripping oil. A second test is to remove the front intercooler (two nuts, one bolt, and one clamp). See if that is full of oil. If the supercharger and front intercooler are fairly dry (a little oil is normal), then that is not the problem.

If the supercharger is full of oil, then just buy a $600 used one from ebay and install that on the Millenia and you are on your way. Forget about rebuilding one, or buying a rebuilt one. Just get a working used one from ebay - it will be much cheaper that way.

Here is a picture looking in through the throttle body (with butterfly open) to see the supercharger. It should look dry and clean like this, not puddling and dripping oil.

From the smoke you describe, this would be litereraly puddling with oil, and you could probably pour oil out of the front intercooler. If these areas are dry, then you need to start looking elsewhere for the problem.

 

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where do you get that 4400-4700? resale on a millenia is in the toilet. here locally 01 and 02 are going for 3500, and not smoking.

2001 Mazda Millenia super charge, 4 door auto, pearl white 142 k miles

2002 MAZDA MILLENIA S

and that sure sounds like a fubar engine, not the compressor. as in broke piston(s) or rings. the good news is that you can get a jdm motor for about a grand. the bad news is that after you install it, the car is still only worth about 2k
I still think its the SC.... guy who sold it to me says its the seals but i dont know if hes mechanically inclined bc he didnt wanna fix it. intercooler and tubing are spiting out oil.

yes, last time i checked with my uncle who is a salesman at Ford, says the car is sellable at $4,400-$4,700.00 fixed up.. didnt say it was the value of the car not fixed....

EXCELLENT condition $4,700
VERY GOOD condition $4,400
GOOD condtion $4,300
FAIR condtion $3,650


Sounds like more than the supercharger for that amount of smoke.

One quick way to check is to remove the top half of the air filter box, then remove the air hose, then remove the resonator box. Get it stripped down to where you are at the throttle body. Then open the butterfly of the throttle body and look inside. You can then see right into the supercharger. You will see the two pressed in caps where the seals are and see the rotors. See if that is clean and dry looking in there, or full of puddling and dripping oil. A second test is to remove the front intercooler (two nuts, one bolt, and one clamp). See if that is full of oil. If the supercharger and front intercooler are fairly dry (a little oil is normal), then that is not the problem.

If the supercharger is full of oil, then just buy a $600 used one from ebay and install that on the Millenia and you are on your way. Forget about rebuilding one, or buying a rebuilt one. Just get a working used one from ebay - it will be much cheaper that way.

Here is a picture looking in through the throttle body (with butterfly open) to see the supercharger. It should look dry and clean like this, not puddling and dripping oil.

From the smoke you describe, this would be litereraly puddling with oil, and you could probably pour oil out of the front intercooler. If these areas are dry, then you need to start looking elsewhere for the problem.
yah i agree, the seller told me its the seals so i hope hes right.

plan on taking some stuff off today but not sure how far i will get to today. I know there are chargers for sale on ebay. i found a few that i might be buying. my car is going to an auto repair shop i trust completely and they are gonna put on a t belt and water pump and install the new *used* sc for me and change out the the low pro tires *used to be a kids car* and get regular tires. change the oil and probably run ATF to get some GUNK out of it, and start running syn oil from now on.
 

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Well... I don't know about the conditions of the ones on ebay but I have a nice spare one I'd sell for $300 if you're interested. it's as clean as a whistle, and I'm 90% sure you could just drop it in and it would work.

you need to be logged in to see the pics



 

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confirmed.... Seals are out.
Big difference in the picture I posted, and the pictures you posted. Definately oil leaking everywhere from the supercharger seals and pouring out of the resonator.

I would make a suggestion. Before spending a bunch of money on timing belt, water pump, tires, ATF change, etc., focus on the main problem at hand.

I would recommend just getting a used supercharger that looks clean inside where the two metal seal plugs are, and the twin screw rotors turn freely. If it is clean inside (no oil) and rotors turn freely, then like bigb says, you have a 90% chance of getting a good supercharger. Install that and get the car working again. Once you do that, then start working on the other items on the list (timing belt, water pump, etc.).

These cars can quickly become a money pit. So just fix what is broken first, before dumping money into replacing things that aren't broken yet. You would hate to dump money into timing belts and water pumps, only to find out there is some other major problem and junk the car.
 

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Big difference in the picture I posted, and the pictures you posted. Definately oil leaking everywhere from the supercharger seals and pouring out of the resonator.

I would make a suggestion. Before spending a bunch of money on timing belt, water pump, tires, ATF change, etc., focus on the main problem at hand.

I would recommend just getting a used supercharger that looks clean inside where the two metal seal plugs are, and the twin screw rotors turn freely. If it is clean inside (no oil) and rotors turn freely, then like bigb says, you have a 90% chance of getting a good supercharger. Install that and get the car working again. Once you do that, then start working on the other items on the list (timing belt, water pump, etc.).

These cars can quickly become a money pit. So just fix what is broken first, before dumping money into replacing things that aren't broken yet. You would hate to dump money into timing belts and water pumps, only to find out there is some other major problem and junk the car.

okay so if i buy Bigb's supercharger, drop it in, actually clean the engine abit and all tubes of intercooler system and then drop this charger from bigb (if thats a good idea) and then see if the oil/smoke problem is gone, then install a belt and water pump?

i know that would be the smartest/common sense to do first, i may just do that, have the shop rip out the old one, clean out all the tubing and intercooler stuff, i'll PM bigb and make arrangements and shipping and then drop that in and see how it runs. as far as i know, i dont hear a miss or knock when i start it up with this sc leaking like a bad cut open artery... tranny doesnt slip or shift hard.
 

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I would tend to agree, especially with this car. fix one thing at a time so you don't change too many variables at once.
 

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While you are swaping out the supercharger, change all the T-connectors (regardless of condition) and change any vacuum hose that looks bad or leaking. Because once you pull out the CAC and supercharger, all the T-connectors and vacuum hoses are right there. So now would be the time to do those as well.
 
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