Really enjoying watching all of this!

 

Its a Thrillride, CJ, let me tell you....

At this point I am going to have to buy the new camshaft from Malaysia because I have had NO luck on finding a used one. I will have to just reuse my existing cam followers as I can't even find the new ones on eBay any more.

Im considering using the original cam and followers, even though they are definitely NOT even close to spec because they at least can only reunion themselves more and not necessarily affect anything else. The concern with doing that is having more microscopic metal particles floating around my new motor... again, this was supposed to be an inexpensive rebuild for the kid to drive around but its getting expensive fast.

So... Ill just have to make some big decisions here in the next day or so if I don't get some progress on that darn Camshaft!

Thanks ya'll!

 

Ok Roverjosh......looks like I have an extra cylinder head, with cam and all. I have several of the G6 cylinder heads, but, they go to my engines that I have also! The head that I pulled out of a JY years ago, to scavenge bolts and such, is missing the cam, as far as I can tell. But if the weather clears up tomorrow (in Florida) I will get this head outside & start cleaning it up to see what it is like......it should all be good, but the head is likely warped......they usually are with the G6.

I will let you know what I find out after cleaning it up some.

 

Well......take care of the wife first.......in the long run, that's cheaper! LOL We do have our fingers crossed for you......and don't forget the pics!

 

Well......take care of the wife first.......in the long run, that's cheaper! LOL

WAY CHEAPER !!!!

 

That is looking really good Roverjosh! Glad that the wife's leg is doing good also! Keep her happy!

 

Question for you Axel. I am in the process of rebuilding a 2600i and I noticed in your build pictures that you set up timing gears and chains without the head on. is this the easiest way to do it or maybe only way. Correct me if I’m wrong but I’m assuming that I will have to release the tensioner in order to put the cam gear on Once i have the head installed.
Also one more question. On top of the block between block and head is what seems to be a reducer for the oil going to head, which I’m assuming that it gives it more pressure. There appears to be two orings that need to be replaced. Are these orings in the head gasket kit? If not where can I get them?
Thanks for your help.

 

I'm experienced in old VWs, and Your bellhousing looks fine to me. And I haven't heard of anyone greasing a new throwout bearing on anything.

You'll use a clutch tool to align the clutch disc before the pressure plate is installed/bolted down to the flywheel.

 

I seem to remember getting a rubber O-ring from the hardware store to fit in there on my B2200 distributor.

 

You're welcome Josh! If the fuel in the tank has turned bad, even with new fuel in there, your fuel pump may not "start spinning" when you go to crank the engine. When you get the new gas in there......turn the key to ON, and see if you can hear the pump turn on, then shut off after building it's pressure into the fuel system. If you don't hear anything, run the test procedure in the service manual.....I believe you have a copy of that....right?

And you can order that "spacer" for the distributor......as I have some of them new I believe. Let me see if I can locate them online for you.

 

Hey everybody! First off, happy new year. I swear I am the slowest project guy in the world. I have been making incremental progress on the truck, but its not ready to start yet. However, that being said, it is like.... right ... there. So close.
So, Im going to attach a few pics of the engine progress. I thought I took good pics of the engine bay before I unplugged everything 2 years ago (LOL) but it appears I was lacking in some spots.

So here are few pics of how things stand right now. I have two coolant lines that go to the throttle body but Im not sure if they match correctly to original. I do have a very nice manual but so help me, I can't quite seem to tell if they are right. Although, looking at how it routes, I don't really think it will matter if they are backwards as it seem to just be a way to preheat the throttlebody, so as long as it doesn't leak the water flows, who cares. Tell me if it looks right.

As for the Distributor spacer, I have not been able to find one online yet. I'll keep looking.

As for the distributor wiring, in reconnecting my wiring harness, I have come to realize the sad state of many of my connectors. Distributor connector wire all just broke, right at the connector. It really is a 275k truck. I was worried I was screwed but Amazon had a whole new connector pigtail for $10! Winning!!! I bought some new heat shrink fuse splices (I suck at soldering and don't like just crimp connectors so that is next project this week. Fixing all the broken wiring.

Heres a pic of how bad it was. I just pulled gently on them and they broke. They were never going to work correctly.

Lastly, the fuel tank. I hadn't hooked the fuel feed up to the filter yet because I wasn't 100% sure of which was the feed/return. I figured that out, but in the process, I hooked up a battery and turned on the key. I did NOT hear the pump. However, my ECU is not connected. I don't know if that matters. Also, Im thinking of dropping the tank, dumping the super old gas, and checking/cleaning the pickup filter etc. Who knows whats going on in that tank after sitting for 2 years and I want good clean gas for my first attempt at a start. Plus, I can test the pump while I have the tank out....thoughts?

This weekend, I will be reassembling the accessory belts and radiator and rewiring that Distributor connector. As far as the engine goes, that is all that is left before I go to try to start it for the first time.

Im starting to get excited. I still have to put the fenders back on, all the front lights, grill, bumper assembly, etc. but that is all cosmetic. That stuff I can do in my sleep. I also need to weld in some rust repair in the drivers floorpan. I have some big holes in there and redo the interior but again, that is all cosmetic and can be done over time. I might actually be able to drive this little guy soon!!!

Thanks all again for your support and sorry I haven't made more progress. Life just keeps getting in the way!

 

I think you learned after major cooling system work to first fill up with tap water, and ensure no leaks. And then drain the water and get to your 50/50.....

 

That is a good suggestion, Cussboy, thank you.

I keep running into minor snags... mostly on other vehicles/projects but here is my latest.

Found another leak... this time the power steering pump. Now I know why the bottom of the truck was literally covered by PS fluid... the bottom metal hose, bolts has O-ring and they must be shot, cuz it just drains out. No pressure on them, so I will have to pull that off and fix those.

Also, I have found that all of my Solenoids (4x4 solenoid vavle cluster) are broken. Those things are expensive! $90 bucks a piece if I get Mazda parts for my truck.

Looks like I can get cheaper ones from newer cars, like the MPV, 626, etc but the connector is going to be different. So I would need to change those out. Don't want to do that.
So it looks like the 4x4 would not have been able to engage cuz the Actuator was looped into itself. I traced all the vacuum hoses out and realized it when the lines didn't seem to g to the right places.

SOOOOOOOOooooooo, if anyone has a few spare of those solenoids and wants to sell them, I'm looking.

Here is a snapshot of the part #s from the Jim Ellis online catalog. I need 2 of the 18-741A's and 1 of the 18-740E.

I'll buy a whole assembly if its in working condition? I could just bypass the Purge Vavle Solenoid, I think, because I think that is just emissions, but Im not sure...

Thanks all. More after I get back from Spring training... Go Giants!!!!

 

Workshop Manual – Mazda Mini Truckin'

mazdaminitruckin.com

 

Hey Josh........Cussboy is a very good person to purchase parts from! I have actually met him in person as well.......the wife and I flew out to Las Vegas and rented a vehicle and drove all over out there in the Western states in 2023. Met Cussboy and had dinner and a couple of beers with him. Good times!!

 

You are definitely on the right track with your rebuild. I have rebuilt several of the G6 [2600i] engines (as well as the FE [B2000] & F2 [B2200] engines) and every time, I just cleaned everything and installed new bearings (less the balance shaft bearings) and rings, gaskets, oil pump, etc.

I believe that the metal in these Mazda engine blocks is very good, and you hardly ever see a ridge at the top of the cylinders......if your piston skirts do not have deep vertical scoring (scuffs are fine) then you can actually re-use the factory pistons......I have done this and my engines are still going strong. My way of thinking is, if boring and new pistons are not really needed, then re-use the originals if in good shape.......you will still get plenty of miles out of the engine when rebuilding them like this......I can attest to that!!

You may want to spring for a new oil pump though, and unfortunately, they include the timing chain cover also, and therefore are quite expensive ($300.00 or so).......but good insurance for your new bearings!

I will post some pics of some of my G6 rebuilds soon.......gotta get some dinner right now!

 

Where can I find the passenger balance shaft idler sprocket? The balance chain timing sprocket and meshed gear riding on a bearing. Jim Ellis Mazda says it's discontinued, but I see it in your rebuild pictures. My truck is parked without it.

 

None of the bolts are Torque-to-Yield........clean them good and re-use them! They are already better than any replacement bolts that you can buy, save ARP or the like!

I use a 240 grit Flex Hone to cut the cylinder glazing.

FelPro or Mazda gaskets are the best bet......and you don't need a Oil Pan gasket! Mazda used silicone to seal the oil pans on all of these truck engines. I use the Ultra Grey silicone.

 

I also don't recommend reuse.

 

Here is the engine in my first B2600i truck that I bought exactly 13 years ago today.....if I'm not mistaken!

I bought this truck from a junkyard in town, after the previous Owner tried to replace the head and gasket and did not set up the timing chain correctly......proceeded to crank the engine after putting it together, and bent all 4 exhaust valves.......and 1 intake valve. Never crank one of these engines without turning the engine over by hand, to check for clearance issues!

Apparently, after realizing what he did, the P.O. towed it to the JY with only 83,516 miles on the ODO! I hit the B-Series Lotto that day! Out the door with Tag, Tax, & Title for $702.00 ....... cost me $125.00 for the machine shop to replace the valves......then about another $100.00 buying a new FelPro HG and misc. gaskets, etc.

All I did was cleaned it all up good, and re-assembled the engine......still driving the truck today! (Old pic below)

 

Here is a G6 engine that I totally rebuilt......but still re-used the factory pistons, and kept it all standard sizes......no boring or crank conditioning.....other than my cleaning and polishing on it. All new crank & rod bearings, rings, seals, oil pump, gaskets, etc.
Sold it to a friend, he sold it to his Son, then his Grandson had a heater hose burst, and he kept driving it, all the way home! I had to replace the cylinder head, gasket and ALL hoses.......just to make sure he was good for a while!! He eventually sold the truck to someone, and I have not seen it again.

I cleaned the block up, re-installed the balance shafts, and started to rebuild it.....

The new Owner getting some sweat equity in.....

Cleaning everything by hand is a chore, but rewarding in the end.....

Do not use steel or brass cleaning brushes on the aluminum pistons......only plastic......takes a while, but no scratching going on.....

 

Don't have many pics of me measuring the clearances, but that's what I'm doing here.......installing the bearings and then measuring the size, then subtracting the crank journal sizes.....

Getting ready to drop in the crank....

 

Measuring crank end play.....

Looks like .006"

I use a large screwdriver to "shift" the crank and measure the end play....

 

And just like that!.......The pistons are in! LOL

 

Setting up the balance shafts & timing chains.......I believe I bought all new chain guides, as well as chains, for this engine also.....

Brass freeze plugs.....

New Oil Pump......and Timing Cover.

 

New Head! With the original camshaft and rockers on it......all cleaned up.

And installed......

Torqueing the Harmonic Balancer bolt.....

 

Using the large pry bar to hold the engine from turning.....

Rear Main Seal & Housing.....

Ultra Grey on the oil pan rails & pan.....

Pan on....

Pan painted!

 

You may want to order a new Oil Cooler-to-Block seal also......

Ready to drop in the truck!!

DONE!!

 

First and foremost, wow! I can't believe how awesome you guys are! Axel Breaker Earl, your engine build looks SO GOOD!
I cant emphasize enough how appreciative I am for all this amazing info....
Seriously. SO GOOD!
I am ordering basically ALL new seals (oil cooler included), new timing chains and guides, and all new gaskets. This poor motor was NOT happy... LOL 279k miles and severely blown head gasket. When I drained the coolant oil mixture (yes it was chocolate milk) some timing chain guide material was coming out with it. My chain guide were disintegrating in this motor probably before the head blew.
So, I have so far, just received my reman head from CCH. Its beautiful.

I did check the Crank End Play before I pulled the crank and it was within tolerance. I bought an official Mazda Service Manual from eBay and it has already paid for itself in how unbelievably straight forward it is.
Seeing as how this is my first engine rebuild (and how horrifically dirty this truck is) I am going to take the block to a really good machine shop near my house and have them give it and the crank a once over. I don't have a big enough micrometer to check the journals and I don't really know how to measure them anyway. LOL

Questions:
Do I just reuse my Valve train caps (not correct term)? My rockers arm are still assembled on the old cam caps.
I will email CCH to confirm but I don't have a clue how I would disassemble the rocker assembly so I planned on just moving the new caps to the old head Im sending back to CCH as a core. Thoughts? (I'll attach pics)

A.B. Earl, it looks like you just cleaned up your original pistons. Mine "looked" great and I planned on reusing them. Sounds like thats not a problem?

I am going to transfer the intake and exhaust threaded bolts over to the new head tonight. I assume I should use some Red loctite? Or is blue sufficient (loctite only on threads in the head?)

Im sure I will have a ton more question as assembly continues but here are some pics of the fun...

Here is the original Rocker Assembly

You can see some scoring on the guide. This is the only one that is only one that has any scoring. The rest are looking pretty good.

Heres some reman head "eye candy." Isn't it beautiful?!

 

Yes.....I re-used my stock pistons and ordered std. sized rings for them. Clean them well inside of the ring grooves.....if needed, you can gently use a small/sharp "dental tool" to get to the inside corners of the ring grooves, to get that last little bit of carbon/crud removed.......just try not to add anymore scratches to the aluminum pistons......that's the goal.

You will want to order new Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLA's) and totally clean your original rocker arms & shafts......then install them into/with the NEW cylinder head cam caps. If you are uncomfortable taking the rocker arms & shafts apart and cleaning them, ask your machine shop if they could do it for you.......and provide them the new head, with the new cam caps, and your original camshaft.......BEFORE shipping the core (and it's cam caps) back to CCH.

Yes.....use RED Loctite to keep all of the studs in the new cylinder head. You can thread two nuts together, onto the non-head side of the studs, then tighten them against each other, to help tighten the studs into the new head.

Thanks for the kudos! I actually enjoy building these smaller 4 cyl. engines and have always taken a lot of pictures as I work on vehicles.......it really helps you later on, to be able to go back and see what you did a few years later! As we get older, it's hard to remember everything!! It is all looking good too!!

 

Another thing to think about.......as you get further along with your engine, look into buying new Mazda coolant & bypass rubber hoses.......the new Mazda hoses will last another 20 years, and add some good insurance that the coolant system is in good shape for years to come.......none of the 4-cyl. engines like to overheat!
I've had replacement heater hoses split before, when only 5-6 years old......and they were NOT a Mazda hose!

Another thing......use a quality (not made in China or Taiwan) front oil seal......the one in the timing cover where the harmonic balancer mounts. I've had a Taiwan made front crankshaft oil seal "push out" of the factory timing cover on one of my B2600i trucks, years after it was installed, while driving down the road! Did not know it, but stopped at the grocery store and smelled burning oil when I got out of the truck to go into the store.......thought it was from a car that was parked next to me.....surely it couldn't be MY TRUCK! Well, heading back home from the grocery store, and my oil idiot light starts flashing on and off......I was just about to my driveway, so I shut the engine off and coasted into the drive.......got out and looked (it was night time of course!) and the whole underside of the truck was coated in oil. When I fixed it the next morning, I measured the outside diameter of the new, made in Japan seal, and the old Taiwan seal that I had bought from one of the box auto parts stores, and if I remember correctly, it was .019" smaller in diameter.......when measuring it with a Dial Caliper.

Here is the old Taiwan seal.....