Build Thread - B2600i 4x4

4021 Views 89 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Roverjosh, 5 d ago

Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · 5 mo ago

10

So I have tons a question so I figure I will just post a "build-thread" cuz thats what you do when you buy a new car.
Bought a '92 B2600i 4x4 with a blown head gasket for only $500. It is definitely a rough truck, but even with the blown head gasket, it started right up and all the important stuff "worked." It is going to be my son's first car and we are rebuilding together as a practice platform for him and because I love these old 80s/90s gen trucks.

So we pulled the motor and I tore it down. I had the Head checked and it is definitely bad. So I have a reman ordered from CCH down in Florida.
This is my first engine rebuild although I have watched lots and lots of videos, read countless forums over the years (Im and Aircooled VW guy), and I know doing is a lot different than watching.

My question is for all the Engine builders out there regarding your experiences on these 2.6L motors....

Should I replace the clutch since I have everything out, even though the P.O. supposedly had just done it? (its looks newish)
Should I have the flywheel checked, honed, replaced etc?
What are you suggestions for the block, Pistons, crank etc? My plan is to take the Crank, Block and Pistons to my local Machine Shop and have the cylinders honed and have the crank checked. I did a plastiguage of the rings and its actually within tolerance so I assume that I can just order new bearings and I don't need to bore and move to and undersize set of bearings?
Are the Piston bolts, crank bearing bolts, headbolts, etc on this motor all "Torque to Yield" like some of the newer motors etc. or can I reuse them?
Suggestions on brands for gaskets, rings, etc.
I assume my bearings are NO good and need replacement. (see pics)
I assume my cylinders could use a light hone but don't look too bad? (see pics)

I know thats a lot of questions but Im just trying to get a good plan going so I can get this thing built and put back together. Im tired of my son borrowing my truck... lol

Thanks everyone!

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R7urnm

· #61 · 2 mo ago

Axel Breaker Earl said:
None of the bolts are Torque-to-Yield........clean them good and re-use them! They are already better than any replacement bolts that you can buy, save ARP or the like!

I use a 240 grit Flex Hone to cut the cylinder glazing.

FelPro or Mazda gaskets are the best bet......and you don't need a Oil Pan gasket! Mazda used silicone to seal the oil pans on all of these truck engines. I use the Ultra Grey silicone.

I also don't recommend reuse.

Axel Breaker Earl

· #62 · 2 mo ago

R7urnm said:
I also don't recommend reuse.

Why?

They are NOT torque-to-yield bolts. The original genuine Mazda bolts, all cleaned up, are probably of better quality than most aftermarket head bolts that you can buy for these engines. I certainly would not throw the original Mazda bolts in the trash, and replace them with new "Made in China" head bolts that you see for sale on Ebay!!

Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · #63 · 2 mo ago

I got 2 new seals in the mail the other day. I also just got back from Spring Training in Scottsdale. So I’m exhausted! Lol
I’m going to see which one fits best and get moving on the build again.

Earl I see from your pics you mounted your motor to your engine stand from the rear like most engines when being worked-on. However, the shop manual said it should be mounted from the drivers side engine mounts. So it’s perpendicular to the stand. I’m realizing this is so you can easily access the rear main seal for reassembly. I don’t have very long bolts to mount mine from the bell housing mount and still have access to put the rear main seal plate back on. How did you guys tackle that part of the assembly? The manual wants the flywheel on and locked in place before I assemble the timing gear.
I guess I’m just asking how you worked around that if you did lock the crank in someway before you started assembling the timing etc?
Thanks!

Axel Breaker Earl

· #64 · 2 mo ago

4

Roverjosh said:
Earl I see from your pics you mounted your motor to your engine stand from the rear like most engines when being worked-on. However, the shop manual said it should be mounted from the drivers side engine mounts. So it’s perpendicular to the stand. I’m realizing this is so you can easily access the rear main seal for reassembly. I don’t have very long bolts to mount mine from the bell housing mount and still have access to put the rear main seal plate back on. How did you guys tackle that part of the assembly? The manual wants the flywheel on and locked in place before I assemble the timing gear.
I guess I’m just asking how you worked around that if you did lock the crank in someway before you started assembling the timing etc?
Thanks!

I went and bought 2 different lengths of the 14mm bolts that are used to couple the engine and trans together.....from a local industrial hardware business. Spent about $75.00 also (years ago)! I also bought some hollow spacers in several lengths to go with the bolts in order to extend the engine away from the engine stand, in order to gain room for the flywheel if I wanted to install it while the engine was on the stand.
Sometimes I just install the flywheel after I pull the engine off of the stand......as in the pics below. I just rest the engine on the ground while it is hooked to the hoist, and use a bolt and a pry bar to keep the engine from spinning while torquing the flywheel-to-crank bolts, or the large harmonic balancer bolt.

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I usually install the clutch items also, before hoisting the engine into the engine bay. A friend is shown putting in his sweat equity!

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Beers for a job well done!

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Axel Breaker Earl

· #65 · 2 mo ago

4

Here is how I hold the engine from spinning while tightening the HB bolt....while on the stand......

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Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · #66 · 2 mo ago

Thanks AB Earl. Im attempting to mount it sideways but if that doesn't work, I will go get the longer bolts like you suggested. Im trying to follow the manual like an instruction book since its my first full engine rebuild. If I get stuck, I'll hit you guys up. I was able to get one of those cheap flywheel chocks to lock the crank rotation, so I'll be trying that once Im at that step.

Im going to dig back through the thread, but what silicon sealant do you use for the rear seal cover and oil pan etc? I was thinking that black stuff but was curious if you all have a preferred brand/type etc?

Thanks again!

Axel Breaker Earl

· #67 · 2 mo ago

I use the Permatex Ultra Grey......seems to work the best for me.

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C J

· #68 · 2 mo ago

Engine looks like a work of art.

Axel Breaker Earl

· #69 · 2 mo ago

C J said:
Engine looks like a work of art.

I like 'em clean!

Reactions: 1

C J

· #70 · 2 mo ago

Axel Breaker Earl said:
I like 'em clean!

I am just about 60 now, have had many, many cars in my life from Jap imports to German imports and big American muscle cars. Ever since my first car at 17 years old I have degreased and washed out my engine every spring. A clean engine is a happy engine!

Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · #71 · 2 mo ago

Thank you again Earl.... Nothing like a good degreasing....lol

I got some Ultra Gray and some High Temp Red as well. Both Permatex. I'll use the gray on the block and red on the head if it calls for it or just stick with the Gray all around.
I'll post pics of the progress.

Axel Breaker Earl

· #72 · 2 mo ago

You shouldn't need to use the red on anything, that I know of.......I use the Ultra Grey for all gaskets that require a sealer.

Rear main seal housing
Thermostat housing
Intake Manifold
Timing Cover
ETC.

The Felpro head gaskets that I use, go on dry........doh! Dinner is ready!

Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · #73 · 2 mo ago

Excellent. Thanks again.

Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · #74 · 2 mo ago

OMG I swear its 2 steps forward and 1 step back for me on this little motor... I got the flywheel on and torqued. Moved to the front/timing portion of the motor and realized I ordered 2 Balance shaft chains instead of a timing chain and balance shaft chain. UGH... Totally my mistake.

Anyone need a Cloyes 9-4162 Balance Shaft chain? New in box?

So Rock Auto wont give me a refund cuz its over 30 days since I ordered (my fault for taking too long on this build.)
Ill be hitting local parts stores tomorrow to find one. Im not optimistic they will have one. Otherwise its 10 days for Rock Auto to get me one... Ugh again.

So I assume it is a really bad idea to reuse the old one. I remember Axle Breaker Earl saying NEVER reuse timing chains... I trust that.

Welp. Im dead in the water for now.

Axel Breaker Earl

· #75 · 2 mo ago

DOH!!
I could look and see if I have a new one in my stash.....I probably do. I know I have nearly everything to rebuild my 4x4 G6 engine whenever I decide to do so. I will look today Josh.
You should be able to get one from any of the national parts chain stores.....Autozone, Advance, O'reilly, etc.....they will have to order it, but they usually get it in 24 hrs or less. Check with them and see first, and let me know.......you can text me if you still have my number.

Axel Breaker Earl

· #76 · 2 mo ago

Looks like April 6th delivery if I were to order it here in Gainesville, FL....

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Cussboy

· #77 · 2 mo ago

Axel Breaker Earl said:
Looks like April 6th delivery if I were to order it here in Gainesville, FL....

View attachment 11377

I'm in Phoenix, we have a local O'Reilly warehouse. I looked up 9-4161 here at 7:50am and it said if I ordered now FREE Ship to Store with pick up by 1:15 PM today. And their software has proven correct in the past.

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Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · #78 · 2 mo ago

Yup, AB Earl, I did the same. No one had it in stock but Autozone had the best price and the fastest shipping. It will be here 4/4 and it only cost 4.99 to ship it. Rock Auto was 10 days to ship and it was $10... and Advance, NAPA, etc. were all around the same price but took longer to ship and cost more. So Autozone it is.

I will just clean parts and stuff in the meantime. I need to get the truck on jack stands and get the wheels off to start checking brakes etc... The kid will help with all that when he gets home from work.

There is always something to do... I just can't believe I didn't order the right chain! LOL Oh well. just another delay.

Thanks again!

Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · #79 · 2 mo ago

@CJ, I checked O'Reilly and they couldn't get me the chain until 4/7...
Thanks again to everyone for the great research and assistance.

Roverjosh

Discussion Starter · #80 · 2 mo ago

9

Ok. Picture time!!!

Timing chain on.

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Cam Sprocket in place

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Crank Sprocket, Balance Chain and Balance shafts all in place on proper (I think/hope) timing slots.

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Drivers balance shaft

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Crank sprocket

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Passenger balance shaft

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Head is on.

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Front view of head on.

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Camshaft in place

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Im starting to get things going but I learned that some of my bolts, mostly the ones on the Oil Pump cover did exhibit some stretch. The torque settings for those bolts are pretty low but as I was locking them down some just kept spinning. I could tell they were stretching and about to break. So I have ordered a few replacements.
I also lost a few (shocker) in the process of the tear down so I would have had to find them anyway.

I figure I can proceed with assembling the rocker arms etc. while I wait for the bolts to get delivered. And Im out of town (to NEW YORK baby!!!!) next week anyway for my kids spring break. So I have time to order more parts.

I need to source a fan clutch and fan assembly. Orig owner had "converted" this truck to electric fans run manually off a switch hardwired to the battery.... super Mickey Moused... I am going to try to go back to stock, belt driven fan.

AB Earl... got any fan parts you could "part" with? lol

Thanks for looking everyone!

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