[Axel Breaker Earl]

Normal driving will break in the new rings......being a manual trans, you will naturally vary the rpm's, while driving it normally, to help break in the rings as needed.

 

[Roverjosh]

This is exactly what I was hoping you’d say, AB!
Thank you so much for the advice.
Next step is reinstalling my Distributor.
mom not sure on the orientation.
I’m going to pour over the shop manual and my of pics again.

 

[Roverjosh]

Got a little work done on the motor.
Not finished with all the ancillaries, but getting closer to putting it in the truck.

Found out I have more rust than I thought in the drivers footwell, so I have to find a donor or find a replacement floor pan.

Heres the pics.

 

[Roverjosh]

Ok. Next set of pics.

PLEASE LOOK AT THE OIL COOLER HOSE THAT ROUTES BEHIND THE ALTERNATOR.

This is the original. I just realized (after I put the old one one) that I believe I have a new one.

Im going to put it on, but it has a weird tendency to kink in the way that thing routes. I unfortunately don't have a good picture of the original before I disconnected, so thats my bad.

Anyone got some opinions/suggestions? Don't want a coolant flow restriction when I get this running.

Thanks!

 

[Roverjosh]

Heres the new hose.

I think I'll just throw that in there and see. Cant hurt. Its a Gates Hose Part# 18942. Says its for the Oil cooler but couldn't confirm.

 

[Roverjosh]

Ok. That DEFINITELY doesn't go in the same spot. I am thoroughly confused now. It is way too long to fit on the oil cooler in/outlet that faces the block. So I tried it on the other in/outlet of the oil cooler.

Let me know if anyone can take pics of theirs. AB Earl I am hoping you can shed some light on what I am missing here.

These hoses are confusing me...

 

[Roverjosh]

 

[Roverjosh]

Ok. I think better when I think outloud. So I am starting to think 1) that first used hose isn't even the right one and 2) the new hose I got is also not the right one...
This is the problem with taking too long to rebuild a motor. You can't remember the finer details and I screwed myself by not taking better pictures.

That being said, I am wondering if the previous owner had bypassed the Oil Cooler entirely. See the below pics of my cross tubes and the pics from the manual...
Anyway. Im going to try again tomorrow and scour the Mazda Online parts diagrams...

 

[Cussboy]

I'm likely worthless here, but I searched and think that the coolant hose for the side opposite the oil filter is Mazda G60115536
And the coolant hose for the side opposite the oil filter is Mazda G60115546
Both are available online or order from local dealer

1992 Mazda B2600 OIL PUMP & FILTER (2600CC)

Diagram of OEM OIL PUMP & FILTER (2600CC). Contains 19 parts priced between $1.90 and $36.18. Fits 1992 Mazda B2600.

www.jimellismazdaparts.com

 

[Roverjosh]

Cussboy, you are 100% correct.

I got myself all worked up for nothing last night. I did more research while, TV surfing and found those same part numbers. I ordered them from my local dealer to make sure they are correct.

I’m pretty sure that 18942 Gates hose is not the right hose for the cooler. I have no idea where it goes but it can’t go there. It’s just too long and bends in the wrong places.

I’ll post pics when I get the correct parts in place.

so glad there are still diagrams online…

Thanks Cussboy!

 

[Roverjosh]

Hey everyone,

So I’m kinda stuck on the distributor install. The manual says “align the marks” but honestly, except for the dot on the drive gear and the line in the distributor body, I can’t tell what other marks they are talking about.

I'm just not sure if I have this thing lined up right? I guess I could put the cap and rotor on and make sure it lines up to cylinder number 1?

Secondly, should it have been that hard to get that distributor drive in? I really had to work that o-ring back and forth forever to get the distributor flush… were anyone else’s that tight? I guess it needs to be a tight for so the oil doesn’t leak but damn.

Let me know what you folks think.
Enjoy the pics.




spacing before the drive was seated.

“Marks“ on distributor

timing mark on crank pulley matched to top dead center.

am I missing any marks on the distributor?

Finally got it seated.

 

[Cussboy]

So I’m kinda stuck on the distributor install. The manual says “align the marks” but honestly, except for the dot on the drive gear and the line in the distributor body, I can’t tell what other marks they are talking about.

I'm just not sure if I have this thing lined up right? I guess I could put the cap and rotor on and make sure it lines up to cylinder number 1?

OK, I don't have hands-on experience with B2600i, but do have on B2200, older Nissan Frontiers, and old VWs.

Yes, you have the distributor marks lined up correctly. With engine rotated to TDC #1, you're ready to install the distributor. Especially with a new O-ring, and that oiled-up, can be quite tough to get that distributor seated. Sometimes I've needed to tap on the distributor body with a block of wood and a hammer.

This is important: for some reasons the B2600i distributor shaft is triangular, so the distributor rotor can actually go on 3 ways, and only one is correct. The rotor must installed to be under #1 spark plug wire, and of course rotating the distributor body once seated is how one adjusts the ignition timing.
This video may be of help.

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

On your Oil Cooler.......make sure it is "clocked" correctly. I have some pics and will post them here. Order the Mazda hoses for the oil cooler, as you have done/said......they will fit great AND last longer!

On the distributor "marks".......it looks like you are good on those......the manual is referring to the "dimple" on the distributor GEAR......and the casting "lump/line" on the distributor housing shaft......as your distributor picture above shows.

Correct Oil Cooler position:

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

With the oil cooler in the correct position, your Mazda oil cooler hoses will fit perfectly.....and the white dots on the hoses should be located at the top of the hoses......if you can "picture that. I may have some more pics from a different engine build......I'll need to look though!

 

[Roverjosh]

AB Earl, thanks for the pics. I did adjust the orientation of the oil cooler. Still waiting on the hoses to be delivered.

Next question, I can't find the firing order/plug wire orientation anywhere in my manual. (service manual) so quick internet research showed me the the following. Is this correct?

Thanks ya'll!

 

[Roverjosh]

Ok, I can't believe Im so confused about firing order... lol
Heres how I set it up. Rotor faces plug one on the cap, then 1-3-4-2, right?
I hope? lol

Next, that little black, plastic cover between the distributor and the cap is broken. Anyone have any spares or know what its called? Ill see if I can find one on online but Im wondering if it is part of the distributor and not a separate orderable part.

Thanks!

 

[Cussboy]

AB Earl, thanks for the pics. I did adjust the orientation of the oil cooler. Still waiting on the hoses to be delivered.

Next question, I can't find the firing order/plug wire orientation anywhere in my manual. (service manual) so quick internet research showed me the the following. Is this correct?


View attachment 11927

I'm not experienced with B2600i engines.

But I do have the 1992 Service Manual. B2600i firing order is 1-3-4-2, you are correct. Your diagram shows spark plugs on opposite side of cylinder head than a B2600i (could diagram be from a Mitsubishi 1987-1988 B2600 instead of a B2600i?? I didn't search that).

At TDC for #1, is the distributor rotor under where your #1 spark plug wire is? Because the diagram you posted shows #1 different than the 9 o'clock position as shown in your photos. Watch this video

By the way: B2200 engines also have #1 position at 9 o'clock.

 

[Roverjosh]

Cussboy,

I think youre right. That diagram I posted is not 100% accurate for the B2600i. It does show the #1 Cylinder set to the 5 o'clock position but on the B2600i distributor it looks like it needs to be at the 9 o'clock position. The video you posted gives a great example. Thank you a millions times for the great resource info!

I did confirm my rotor and distributor match the video and my firing order is 1-3-4-2. So, I think Im good. The only thing that might be an issue for me is I set my initial timing at 0* TDC. So I may have to adjust a lot with the distributor rotation. Hopefully there is enough adjustment in the static rotation of the distributor body. Worst case, I have to pull the Distributor and reset static timing... blah blah... I won't know that until I get the motor in. I think.

So, speaking of getting the motor in, I finally got the correct Oil cooler hoses and boy was the hose I was trying to install WAY off from the correct hose in both shape and length. No wonder it didn't fit!

I can guarantee I did not remove any hoses that looked anything like the correct hose. This truck was... how do you say politely.... Mickey Moused together? ******* engineered? Yeah, definitely a fixer/upper. LOL

So, here are the "correct" hoses for Oil cooler inlet and outlet, and lastly, the hose I was trying to use as the inlet... not even close!

I have no idea where that longer hose goes, that I bought, but I'm thinking it might be for the heater connections at the firewall. We'll see. I bought it so long ago, I can't remember. This is the drawback of procrastination and getting sidetracked with other projects.... oh well! Onward and upward!

Correct hoses

Correct hoses w/part #'s for future reference.

Mystery hose! Gates Part# 18942. Websearch says its a "Molded Heater Hose: Heater To Pipe-1" so Ill look up where that might go on the Mazda Diagrams.

 

[Axel Breaker Earl]

The rubber heater hoses connect to the metal coolant pipes at the rear of the engine.......if you have them mounted......correctly.

 

[Roverjosh]

Thanks AB, I did find my “old” hose that matched the one I couldn’t identify so I was thinking that is where it had to have come from. Btw, I’m am glad I got new ones. All of my hoses came from a car you can tell was overheating a lot because they are so soft, pliable, and swollen. Definitely needed to be replaced.